Playa del Carmen has the reputation of a resort town, but it eats like Mexico. Yucatecan specialties, seafood from the Caribbean, tacos from central Mexico and an international crowd of cooks all share the same few blocks. Knowing what to order and where to look turns an ordinary trip into a memorable one.
Start with the tacos
Tacos al pastor, made from marinated pork shaved from a vertical spit and served with pineapple, onion and cilantro, are a staple. Look for a taqueria with a spit turning in the window and a crowd of locals at the counter. Tacos de cochinita pibil, which come from the Yucatan, use pork marinated in achiote and sour orange and slow cooked until tender, then topped with pickled red onion. Other fillings to try include carne asada, chicken and fish, and tacos de pescado, often served crisp with creamy sauce. Order two or three at a time and add salsas gradually, since the green and orange ones can be hotter than they look.
Yucatecan dishes
The peninsula has its own cuisine. Sopa de lima is a fragrant chicken broth with lime and crisp tortilla strips. Panuchos and salbutes are fried tortillas topped with beans, turkey or chicken, lettuce and pickled onion. Poc chuc is grilled pork marinated in sour orange, and queso relleno is a layered dish of stuffed cheese. Look for restaurants that advertise Yucatecan cooking, and ask about specials.
Seafood
With the Caribbean on your doorstep, seafood is a highlight. Ceviche, aguachile, grilled fish, shrimp, octopus and whole fried fish appear on beachfront menus and in casual seafood restaurants. The best are simple: fresh fish, lime, salt and chile. Lobster is seasonal, with a closed period during part of the year, so ask about availability. For a relaxed lunch, choose a table near the sand and order several dishes to share.
Street snacks and sweets
Marquesitas, crisp rolled crepes filled with cheese and sweet toppings, are a Yucatecan street treat. Elote, grilled corn with mayonnaise, cheese and chile, is sold from carts, and fresh fruit with lime and chile is a refreshing snack. Churros, ice cream and paletas offer sweet relief from the heat. Agua fresca and horchata are alternatives to soda.
Drinks
Cerveza, especially a cold light beer with lime, is the default. Margaritas are everywhere, but the quality varies, so look for fresh lime and a good tequila. Mezcal, with its smoky flavor, has a growing following, and tasting rooms and bars offer flights with explanations. Tequila tastings are popular and educational, and it is worth learning to taste rather than shoot. Water should be bottled or purified, and ice in reputable restaurants is typically safe.
Where to eat
Quinta Avenida has restaurants of every style, but the best value is often a block or two away. Walk west of the avenue to find local taquerias, family restaurants and market stalls where prices are lower and the food is simpler. Beachfront places offer views at a premium, so treat them as an occasional pleasure. For a splurge, look for a restaurant with a garden or a rooftop and a menu that reflects local ingredients.
How to order and pay
Menus are often in English and Spanish. Check whether the tip is included, and leave a tip in cash where possible. Cards are widely accepted in restaurants, but small stalls prefer cash in pesos. Ask for the bill, because servers will not bring it until you do, which is considered polite. Reservations are useful for popular dinner spots in high season.
Learning more
A guided food tour is an efficient way to taste a lot in one afternoon and learn what to order later, while a cooking class teaches the techniques behind the flavors. Both make good first-week activities, and both leave you with a mental map of the town. Whatever you choose, eat slowly, try one thing you cannot identify, and let the town's flavors set the pace.
Dietary needs and food safety
Vegetarians can eat well on beans, cheese, grilled vegetables, guacamole and fresh salsas, though many traditional dishes use lard or meat stock, so ask. Allergies are best explained in Spanish with a written note. Choose busy stalls with fresh ingredients, drink bottled or purified water and use hand sanitizer before eating. If your stomach is sensitive, start with cooked dishes and add raw salads gradually.