Foz do Douro

Foz do Douro, literally the mouth of the Douro, is Porto's seaside, a quarter of old fishermen's lanes, nineteenth-century villas and broad promenades where the river finally pours into the Atlantic. It is a world away from the crowded old town, and locals come here to walk, run, swim and eat seafood, especially at weekends and on summer evenings. The most romantic way to arrive is on tram line 1, one of the historic lines operated by STCP, Porto's public transport company, whose vintage wooden trams rattle along the riverbank from the historic centre near the Igreja de São Francisco all the way to the Jardim do Passeio Alegre, a palm-shaded nineteenth-century garden at the river mouth. From there, the walk is the attraction. Follow the riverside to the stone jetty and the little Felgueiras lighthouse, where waves crash over the breakwater on stormy days; then turn north along the Avenida do Brasil, where the white Pérgola da Foz, a long classical colonnade built in the early twentieth century, frames the sea. Small rocky beaches with bars and terraces line the shore, and further on stands the squat Castelo do Queijo, a seventeenth-century fort guarding the coast where Porto meets Matosinhos, famous for its grilled-fish restaurants. Behind the seafront, the Foz Velha, the old village, has narrow streets of cafés and boutiques. Single tram tickets are bought on board and two-day passes are sold at kiosks and the Tram Museum; it is a leisurely, scenic way to travel rather than a fast one.

The tram is half the fun. Porto's historic tram network once covered the whole city; today a handful of heritage lines survive for visitors and locals, with polished wooden interiors, brass fittings and conductors in uniform. Line 1 runs along the north bank of the Douro, past the Alfândega, the old customs house now a transport museum, the Massarelos waterfront, the Tram Museum itself and the Arrábida bridge, before reaching the river mouth. Sit on the left-hand side heading west for the river view. Services run daily but are less frequent than ordinary buses, and in summer the queue at the Infante end can be long, so be patient or ride the return leg instead and take a bus or taxi one way. Monthly and Andante passes are valid on the historic lines too.

Making an afternoon of it: arrive by tram in the mid to late afternoon, walk the river mouth and the Felgueiras lighthouse, then wander along the seafront to the Pergola as the sun drops into the ocean. Have a drink at one of the beach terraces, or continue to Matosinhos for dinner, where the fish restaurants grill the catch on charcoal outside. The beaches are for sunbathing more than swimming for much of the year: the Atlantic here is cold and can be rough, though lifeguarded beaches open in summer. On a windy winter day, the spray over the breakwaters is spectacular, but keep a safe distance.

Combining with the west: Serralves and Casa da Música lie inland of Foz, so a day can start at the museum and end at the seafront, or vice versa. Families like the Passeio Alegre garden, with its playground and space to run, and the Sea Life aquarium near the Castelo do Queijo. For couples, the sunset walk along the Pergola is Porto's most romantic free experience after the Luís I Bridge.