Crystal Palace Gardens

The Crystal Palace Gardens are where Porto goes to breathe. They sit on a ridge just west of the historic centre, a short walk from the Clérigos Tower, and they were created in the second half of the nineteenth century around a glass-and-iron exhibition palace inspired by the one in London. The palace itself is long gone, replaced in the mid-twentieth century by the domed sports and events pavilion that still dominates the main lawn, but the gardens designed by Émile David survive, and they are a delight. There is a formal garden at the main entrance, tree-lined avenues, a wilder wooded section, ponds, a small chapel and a series of terraces that drop towards the river with some of the best views in the city, looking down the Douro towards the Arrábida Bridge and the sea, and across to Gaia. Peacocks and chickens wander freely and display on the paths, to the endless delight of children. Entry is free, the gardens are open every day, and they are the obvious place for a picnic, a slow afternoon or a sunset away from the busy riverside viewpoints. The grounds also hold the Almeida Garrett municipal library, an acoustic shell for concerts, and, next door, the historic houses of Casa Tait and the Quinta da Macieirinha. Through the year the gardens host concerts, theatre, children's events and the city's book fair, so check the city agenda if you want company, or come on a weekday morning if you want peace. For families, this is the best free half-day in central Porto; for couples, the river terraces at golden hour are hard to beat.

A little history: the original Crystal Palace was built for an international exhibition in the 1860s, a statement of Porto's industrial and commercial confidence. It hosted exhibitions, concerts and events for decades before it was demolished in the 1950s, a loss many in the city still lament. The domed pavilion that replaced it has been renovated and now serves again as an arena for concerts and events. The gardens, though, kept their nineteenth-century romance, with views that drew the city's merchants and writers here long before tourists arrived.

How to explore: enter from the main gate on Rua de Dom Manuel II, walk past the formal garden and the pavilion, and head for the terraces and viewpoints along the southern edge, which look straight down the Douro. Follow the paths down through the wooded section to discover quieter corners, ponds and benches, then loop back past the library. Allow an hour for a wander or longer for a picnic. Paths are steep in places and some are gravel, so pushchairs are manageable but not effortless. There are cafés nearby, but a picnic bought in the centre is the classic approach.

Fitting it in: the gardens are a ten- to fifteen-minute walk from the Clérigos Tower and Livraria Lello, which makes them a perfect antidote to the queues of the old town. From the lower terraces, paths and streets lead down towards the river at Massarelos, where you can catch the historic tram along the Douro to Foz. Fit: families, couples, photographers and anyone in need of green space and quiet.