Freixo / Eastern Riverside

Pestana Palacio do Freixo Pousada and National Monument

★★★★★

The Palácio do Freixo is one of the great Baroque houses of northern Portugal, and staying here means sleeping in a monument. Designed in the eighteenth century by Nicolau Nasoni, the architect of the Clérigos Tower, the palace stands on the north bank of the Douro east of the city centre, its pale facade, corner towers and ornate windows reflected in the river. It was classified as a National Monument in 1910, and after a long restoration it opened as part of the Pousadas de Portugal network, now run by the Pestana group. The palace itself holds the grand public rooms, with painted ceilings, gilded mirrors and Baroque stucco, used for the restaurant, bar and events, while most of the eighty-seven rooms and suites are in an adjoining former flour mill, converted with a calm, contemporary design and many with views of the river. Facilities are generous: an outdoor pool on the riverside terrace, open from late spring to early autumn, a heated indoor pool, a sauna and a Turkish bath, with spa treatments using Natura Bissé products. The Palatium restaurant serves Portuguese cuisine in the palace's historic rooms, and the Nasoni Bar is a handsome spot for a glass of port. The gardens, laid out in formal Baroque style, lead down to the water, and on a summer evening there are few more beautiful places in Porto for a drink.

The location is the trade-off. The palace is about three kilometres from the historic centre, beyond the Freixo bridge, in a quieter, more residential area, so you will need taxis, rideshares or buses to reach the old town, and walking back in the evening is not practical. For many guests, this is an advantage: you spend the day in the busy centre and return to space, silence and a riverside terrace. It is also convenient for driving, with easy road access out of the city, which suits a trip that combines Porto with the Douro Valley.

Living in it: ask for a river-view room, as the views over the Douro are a big part of the appeal. The rooms in the mill building are modern and comfortable rather than palatial; the grandeur is in the public spaces, so spend time in the salons and on the terrace. The outdoor pool is seasonal, but the indoor pool and spa operate all year. Breakfast in the palace rooms is a memorable start to the day.

Base math: rates are lower than the top city-centre luxury hotels, especially outside summer, which makes it good value for a five-star historic property with two pools and a spa. It suits couples, history lovers, travellers with a car, and anyone who wants a calm retreat from the city. Those who want to walk everywhere should stay in the centre instead.