Vila Nova de Gaia

The Yeatman

★★★★★

The Yeatman is the hotel that most visitors to Porto dream of, and for a special trip it is the one to book. It sits on the hillside of Vila Nova de Gaia, on Rua do Choupelo among the port lodges, and it is built in terraces down the slope so that every room faces north across the Douro to the old town of Porto: the cathedral, the Ribeira, the Clérigos Tower and the arch of the Luís I Bridge, spread out like a stage set and lit up gold at night. The hotel belongs to the world of port. It is part of the Fladgate Partnership, the group behind Taylor's, whose lodge is next door, and wine runs through everything, from the names of the suites, several of them sponsored by wine producers and decorated in their style, to the wine references that run through the design. It is a member of Relais and Châteaux, and its gastronomic restaurant, led by chef Ricardo Costa, holds two Michelin stars; there is also a more relaxed restaurant, The Orangerie, and Dick's Bar and Bistro for drinks and lighter meals with the view. Rooms range from Executive and Superior rooms to panoramic suites and signature suites such as the Bacchus and the Presidential, all with terraces or large windows over the river. The spa offers wine-inspired treatments, and the pools, including the outdoor infinity pool shaped like a decanter, look straight across to the city. The wine cellar and wine shop hold an enormous selection of Portuguese wines, and the hotel runs tastings and wine dinners.

The location is both its strength and its one trade-off. You are in Gaia, not Porto, so the old town is across the river rather than outside the door; but the walk down to the Gaia waterfront and across the lower deck of the Luís I Bridge to the Ribeira takes about fifteen to twenty minutes, and it is one of the most beautiful walks in the city. Coming back is uphill and steep, so many guests take a taxi or the Gaia cable car part of the way. The port lodges, including Taylor's next door, and the WOW cultural district are a few minutes away on foot, which makes the Yeatman the obvious base for wine lovers.

Living in it: book a room or suite with a terrace for the full experience; the panoramic categories have the widest views. Breakfast on the terrace in good weather, a swim in the infinity pool and an evening drink as the city lights come on are what guests remember. Reserve the gastronomic restaurant well ahead, as it is in demand from non-guests too, and note that it has its own opening days. The spa is a good place to recover from the hills, and the hotel can arrange private tastings, cellar visits and Douro Valley excursions.

Base math: rates sit at the top of the Porto market and rise in summer and around holidays, but the Yeatman combines a destination restaurant, a spa, a serious wine programme and arguably the finest view in the city in one place. It is the right choice for a honeymoon, a milestone birthday, a wine-focused trip or anyone who wants to wake up to the panorama of Porto. Travellers who want to walk out into the old town every evening without a climb home may prefer a hotel on the Porto side.