St Nicholas Church, Malá Strana

If you see only one Baroque interior in Prague, make it St Nicholas in Malá Strana. The church stands in the middle of Malostranské square, and its great green dome and bell tower are the defining features of the Lesser Town skyline from Charles Bridge. It was built for the Jesuits in the first half of the eighteenth century by two of the greatest architects of Bohemian Baroque: Kryštof Dientzenhofer, who built the facade and nave, and his son Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer, who completed the choir and the dome after his father's death in 1722. The result is a building of extraordinary movement, its walls and balconies curving and swelling, its pillars painted to look like marble, and its huge statues of saints gesturing from every corner. Above, Johann Lucas Kracker's ceiling fresco of the apotheosis of St Nicholas, painted in 1760 and 1761, is one of the largest in Europe, and the dome is painted by František Xaver Palko; Prague City Tourism counts some 3,000 square metres of wall paintings in the church. Look up into the dome, which rises almost 57 metres inside to the top of the lantern, and the illusion of an open sky is dizzying. The church also has a great eighteenth-century organ, and Mozart is said to have played it during his visits to Prague. Concerts are held year-round, and they are one of the most atmospheric ways to experience the space. Prague City Tourism lists basic admission at 150 CZK, with reduced tickets, and hours that vary by month. The adjacent bell tower is a separate attraction with its own ticket and a view over the roofs of Malá Strana.

What to look for: walk to the centre of the nave and look up to take in the full sweep of the ceiling fresco, then move under the dome. The pulpit, the gilded statues of the Church Fathers by Ignác František Platzer, and the high altar are highlights; in the gallery, a cycle of Passion paintings by the seventeenth-century painter Karel Škréta is worth seeking out if it is open. Bring binoculars or use your phone camera zoom for the details. The church is a working Catholic church, with Mass on Sunday evenings, so be quiet and respectful during services.

Concerts and practicalities: the official programme lists organ and classical concerts throughout the year, including a Christmas concert, and Tiqets sells tickets for some of them. The church is not heated, so in winter bring a warm coat to a concert. Hours vary by month, closing earlier in the winter; the last entry is fifteen minutes before closing. Photography for personal use is generally allowed. The bell tower, reached from the side of the church, involves a steep climb and has its own ticket; it was once used by the Communist secret police as an observation post over the nearby Western embassies, a story told inside.

Fitting it in: St Nicholas is on the main route between Charles Bridge and Prague Castle, so it is easy to drop in on the way up Nerudova street. Pair it with Malá Strana's lanes, Kampa island and the Lennon Wall a few minutes downhill, or with an evening concert after a day in the castle district. In the morning, before the crowds, the church is wonderfully calm. If you only have time for one concert in Prague, an organ recital here, with the music filling the dome, is a strong choice; programmes are posted at the entrance and on the church's official concert page.