Lava Beds National Monument

Lava Beds National Monument lies in the far north-east corner of California, a rugged landscape of lava flows, cinder cones and sagebrush shaped by the Medicine Lake volcano. Its main attraction is the largest concentration of lava tube caves in the lower forty-eight states, more than seven hundred in total, many of which can be explored on foot with a flashlight or headlamp. Mushpot Cave, near the visitor center, is lit and has interpretive displays and is the easiest introduction, while Sentinel, Skull Ice Cave and others offer more adventurous passages. The monument is also the site of the 1872 to 1873 Modoc War, in which Captain Jack and a band of Modoc warriors held off the U.S. Army from a natural fortress of lava, now called Captain Jack's Stronghold. Interpretive trails, a visitor center and ranger programs tell the story from the Modoc perspective. It is a long day trip from Redding, but a fascinating one.

Planning matters more here than at most parks. Services are limited, with no fuel, food or lodging inside the monument, and the nearest towns are some distance away, so fill your tank, bring food and water, and check the National Park Service website for current conditions. Caves vary in difficulty, with low ceilings, uneven floors and total darkness, so wear sturdy shoes, a helmet if possible and carry at least two light sources.

The visitor center can advise which caves suit your group and loans equipment in some cases. Rules protect bats and the caves, including restrictions on clothing and gear after visits to other caves.

The history is as compelling as the geology. The Modoc people defended their homeland against forced removal, and the stronghold, with its natural trenches and corridors in the lava, allowed a small group to resist a much larger force for months. A trail through the stronghold with signs and a visitor center exhibit brings the story to life, and the nearby Canby Cross memorial marks the site where peace commissioners were killed. Approach the history with respect, since it is the story of a people who lost their land.

Because of the distance, consider making this an overnight rather than a day trip. Redding to the monument takes roughly two and a half hours each way, passing Mount Shasta and Burney country. Many visitors combine it with Burney Falls on the way and a night in a nearby town. Summer can be hot and dry in the high desert, while winter brings snow and closures. Spring and autumn are comfortable. Bring layers, plenty of water and a sense of adventure.

Before entering any cave, read the safety guidance at the visitor center and let someone know where you are going. Bring gloves to protect your hands on rough rock, wear long trousers, and avoid touching cave walls and formations. Temperatures underground stay cool all year, so a jacket is useful even on a hot day, and a small backpack makes it easier to carry water and spare batteries. Look for wildflowers and birds above ground in spring and early summer, and visit the petroglyph and pictograph sites on the monument's edges if time allows.