St. John's Church

St. John's Episcopal Church is one of the most important small buildings in American history. In March 1775, delegates to the Second Virginia Convention gathered in its white clapboard sanctuary to debate whether the colony should raise a militia against British rule. On the 23rd, Patrick Henry rose from his pew and delivered the speech that ended with the famous words, Give me liberty, or give me death. Delegates including Thomas Jefferson and George Washington are said to have been present, and the vote that followed set Virginia on the road to revolution. The church had been built in 1741, which makes it one of the oldest buildings in Richmond, and it sits on a green, tree-shaded churchyard at the crest of Church Hill, the neighborhood that takes its name from it. Visitors can tour the sanctuary, which retains the original box pews, the pulpit and the plain, graceful interior of a colonial Anglican church. Guides explain the history of the congregation, the convention and the architecture, and point out details such as the pew where Henry is said to have stood. In warm months the church holds costumed reenactments of the 1775 debate, in which audience members play the delegates and the speeches are performed from the original setting.

The churchyard adds to the visit. Among the graves is that of George Wythe, signer of the Declaration of Independence and Jefferson's law teacher, along with other prominent early Virginians. Elizabeth Arnold Poe, the mother of Edgar Allan Poe, is also buried here, and the grave of a young Poe's mother ties the site to the city's literary history. The churchyard is free to wander during daylight, and benches under old trees invite a pause.

Plan around the schedule. The sanctuary tours generally run on set days and times, and reenactments take place on selected Sundays during the warmer part of the year, often between late spring and early fall, so check the church's own visitor information before you go. Admission for tours and reenactments is charged, with discounts for children and others. The experience lasts about an hour for a tour, or a little longer for the reenactment. Weddings and services can limit access, so check ahead.

Church Hill rewards the extra time. The neighborhood surrounding the church is the oldest in Richmond, with brick rowhouses, narrow streets, restaurants and bars, and Libby Hill Park a short walk away for one of the best views of the James. The Edgar Allan Poe Museum and the Church Hill historian walking tour fit nearby.

Combine the church with a stroll, a coffee and a view, and you will have captured the colonial core of Richmond in half a day. For history fans, it is a pilgrimage; for everyone else, it is a very pleasant corner of the city with a very large story attached.

A few practical touches improve the visit. Wear comfortable shoes, since the churchyard paths and the surrounding hill are uneven, and bring a light layer because historic buildings can be cooler or warmer than outdoors. Photography rules inside the sanctuary vary, so ask before you shoot. The gift shop sells books and keepsakes related to the Revolution, and docents are generally happy to answer questions about the church's architecture, its congregation and the debate of 1775.