Romagna is one of the great eating regions of Italy, and Rimini sits at its seaside end. The food here is generous, simple and rooted in ingredients: flour, eggs, pork, cheese, vegetables and the fish of the Adriatic. You do not need a big budget to eat well, and some of the best meals happen at humble counters and family trattorias.
Piadina
The signature food of Romagna is a thin flatbread cooked on a griddle and folded around fillings. Classic combinations include prosciutto and squacquerone, a soft tangy cheese, with rocket. You will find piadina kiosks all over town, and a cassone, a folded half-moon version, filled with greens or tomato and cheese, is a favourite snack. A good piadina costs little and works as breakfast, lunch or a late-night bite.
Pasta
Fresh egg pasta is a point of pride. Look for tagliatelle with ragu, cappelletti in broth, strozzapreti with sausage or vegetables and passatelli, a dough of breadcrumbs, cheese and eggs served in broth or dry. Lasagne is also excellent. A cooking class in a local home is a fun way to learn the techniques, and the meal afterward is a highlight.
Seafood
On the coast, the Adriatic gives sweet fish and shellfish. Try fritto misto, a plate of fried calamari, shrimp and small fish, or grilled sardines and mackerel. The local fish stew, brodetto, is a rich dish with several species of fish in tomato broth. Mussels and clams appear in pasta. Prices vary, so ask for the catch of the day and check weights on whole fish.
Cheese, cured meats and market food
Squacquerone, pecorino from the hills and cured pork products such as prosciutto and salumi are staples. Markets sell seasonal vegetables and fruit, and delis will make a sandwich to order. The old fish market area is a lively place to eat in the evening.
Sweets and gelato
Italians treat gelato as a daily ritual, and Rimini has dozens of gelaterie. Look for natural colours and flavours served from covered tubs, and try pistachio, hazelnut and fior di latte. Other sweets include ciambella, a ring cake, and torta di riso, a rice cake. Summer evenings are made for an ice cream on the promenade.
Wine and drinks
Sangiovese di Romagna is the major red, ranging from light and fruity to deeper aged styles. The white Albana was the first Italian white to receive the highest quality status, and Trebbiano and Pagadebit are common. Aperitivo hour brings spritz and small bites. Beer and soft drinks are widely available, and espresso is served at every bar. A visit to a hillside winery shows the region at its best.
How to eat like a local
Lunch is the main meal for many, from about 12:30 to 2:30, with dinner after 7:30. Menus often list a primo (pasta), a secondo (main) and sides. Bread and cover charges appear on some bills. Tipping is modest and not mandatory. In summer, book popular places, especially on weekends.
Where to eat
The Borgo San Giuliano has small trattorias with fish. The area around Piazza Cavour has bars and osterias. The seafront has everything from kiosks to elegant restaurants. A food tour or cooking class helps you find the best addresses and gives you a base of recommendations for the rest of your stay.
Dietary needs
Vegetarians can eat well with pasta, vegetable dishes and cheese, though meat appears in many broths. Gluten-free visitors should ask, since wheat dominates the cuisine, but awareness is growing. Allergies should be flagged clearly, and Italian staff are generally helpful.
Coffee and breakfast habits
Italians drink espresso standing at the bar and pay a lower price than at a table. A cappuccino is a morning drink, and a pastry such as a cornetto or a ciambella often accompanies it. Hotels serve buffet breakfasts, but a bar breakfast is a pleasant local ritual and costs very little.
Seasonal specials
Spring brings tender vegetables and wild herbs, summer is for tomatoes, peaches and fresh fish, autumn adds mushrooms, truffles and new wine, and winter favours broths, braised meat and filled pasta. Ask what is in season, and you will often be rewarded with the best dish on the menu.
A suggested day
Start with coffee and a pastry, have a piadina at midday, enjoy an afternoon gelato and finish with pasta or fish and a glass of local wine. It is a simple formula, and it works every time.