Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas

The Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is the great open space at the centre of Rio's South Zone, a broad saltwater lagoon cupped between the beach neighbourhoods of Ipanema and Leblon on one side and the forested mountains of the Tijuca massif on the other. Corcovado and the statue of Christ the Redeemer rise directly above its northern shore, the Dois Irmaos peaks stand to the west, and the lagoon reflects them all on a still morning. It is where Cariocas come to exercise, socialise and watch the sun go down. Riotur describes an eight-kilometre route around the water, a flat path shared by walkers, runners and cyclists, which is busiest at the end of the afternoon and on weekends, when the whole city seems to be out. Bike hire is easy, from the city's shared bikes to stalls along the shore, and a full loop by bike takes well under an hour at an easy pace. Around the lagoon are kiosks serving coconut water, beer, snacks and full meals, many of them with live music in the evening, and there are pedal boats for children, playgrounds, sports clubs and the boathouses of Rio's historic rowing clubs, whose crews train on the water in the early morning; the lagoon is a natural venue for rowing and canoeing and hosted the rowing and canoe sprint events of the 2016 Olympics. On the eastern side, the Parque Natural Municipal da Catacumba climbs the hillside with a short trail to a viewpoint and a sculpture garden, a good add-on for a morning walk. The Botanical Garden and the Jockey Club lie just beyond the western shore, so the lagoon is easy to combine with them. In the past the water quality and fish die-offs made headlines, and swimming is not advised, but the lagoon is pleasant to be around and has been the subject of long-running clean-up efforts.

How to enjoy it: the best plan is to hire a bike or walk part of the loop in the late afternoon, then stop at one of the lakeside kiosks for a drink as the light turns gold on the mountains and the lights of the city come on. Early morning is calmer and cooler, with rowers on the water and Corcovado often clearest. The stretch on the Ipanema and Leblon side, near the Parque dos Patins area, is the liveliest; the eastern side, near Catacumba, is quieter and greener.

Practical details: the lagoon is free and open at all hours, but stick to the busy stretches and avoid the path late at night. Bring water and sunscreen for daytime walks, as there is little shade on parts of the loop. It is easy to reach by ride-hailing car or on foot from Ipanema and Leblon, and the Cantagalo metro station in Copacabana is a short walk from the eastern side.

Who it suits: active travellers who want a run or a ride with a view, families with children on bikes or in pedal boats, and couples looking for a relaxed sunset drink. It is also a welcome break from the beach crowds on a busy day.