Petropolis and the Imperial Museum

Petropolis is the classic day trip from Rio, and the one that tells the most about Brazil's unusual history as the only monarchy in the Americas to last for most of the nineteenth century. The town lies high in the Serra dos Orgaos, the forested mountain range behind Rio, and it was founded as the summer retreat of Emperor Dom Pedro II, who escaped the heat and fevers of the capital each year with his court. Today it is a town of grand nineteenth-century mansions, tree-lined avenues, canals and gardens, noticeably cooler than the coast, and the centre of it all is the Museu Imperial, the emperor's former summer palace. The palace is a graceful neoclassical building painted pink, set in landscaped gardens, and its rooms are furnished as they were in the imperial era, with furniture, paintings, porcelain and personal objects of the royal family. The highlight for most visitors is the collection of imperial regalia, including the crown of Dom Pedro II, and among the paintings is Pedro Americo's large canvas of the Battle of Campo Grande. To protect the original marble and fine wooden floors, visitors put on felt slippers over their shoes and glide through the rooms, which is part of the fun. Around the palace, the Pavilion of Carriages shows nineteenth-century vehicles, and a locomotive from the early twentieth century stands in one courtyard. Beyond the museum, a day in Petropolis usually includes the Gothic Revival Cathedral of Sao Pedro de Alcantara, where Dom Pedro II and Empress Teresa Cristina are buried; the Crystal Palace, an iron and glass pavilion; the house of the aviation pioneer Santos Dumont, full of his eccentric inventions; and the Quitandinha, a vast former casino hotel on the edge of town. The town suffered deadly floods and landslides in 2022, and while the historic centre has long since reopened, heavy summer rain can still affect the mountain road.

Practical details: the official museum site lists the palace open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm, with last entry in the late afternoon, and the gardens open from early morning. The museum is closed on Mondays and on Labour Day, Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Tickets are inexpensive and payable by cash or Pix, with a family ticket and concessions, and entry to the palace is free on Sundays, which makes Sunday the busiest day. The felt slippers are mandatory.

Getting there: Petropolis is reached by the BR-040 highway, a dramatic climb up the escarpment that takes around an hour to an hour and a half from Rio without traffic. Many visitors join a guided day tour from their hotel, which takes care of the driving and usually covers the museum, the cathedral, the Crystal Palace and lunch. Independent travellers can take a coach from the Novo Rio bus station to Petropolis and then a taxi to the centre, or hire a driver. Leave early to avoid the heaviest traffic, and avoid Friday evenings and Sunday afternoons when the road is busiest. Bring a light jacket, since it can be markedly cooler in the mountains.

Who it suits: history lovers, families with children old enough to enjoy the slippers and the crown, and anyone who wants a break from the beach heat. Couples like the gardens and the cafe culture of the town. It makes a full day, so plan it for a day when the beach weather is poor.