Arpoador, Ipanema

Hotel Arpoador

★★★★★

Hotel Arpoador is about as close to the sea as a hotel in Rio can be. It stands at Rua Francisco Otaviano 177, on the little point of Arpoador where Copacabana meets Ipanema, and its seaward side opens almost directly onto the sand of Arpoador beach, which is why the hotel calls itself the closest hotel to the beach in the city. For many years this was the Arpoador Inn, a simple, much-loved budget hotel with an unbeatable position; it has since been transformed into a contemporary boutique hotel under the City and Sea group, which also runs the Ipanema Inn nearby, and it now appears in the MICHELIN Guide. The design is breezy and coastal, with natural materials and a palette of sand and sea, and the best rooms look straight out over the surfers to the ocean and the Dois Irmaos peaks at the far end of Ipanema. On the terrace, a triangular infinity pool seems to merge with the horizon. On the ground floor, the arp bar is open to the public for breakfast, lunch and dinner and has quickly become a neighbourhood favourite, serving contemporary coastal cooking such as crudos, grilled tuna and linguine with clams and bottarga, along with cocktails by the bartender Waguinho, and the terrace tables with sea views are much sought after at sunset. The hotel also has a wellness offering. The location is the great draw. The Pedra do Arpoador, the rock where crowds gather to applaud the sunset, is a minute away; Ipanema beach, with Posto 9 and the Sunday Hippie Fair at Praca General Osorio, starts right in front; and Copacabana and the Copacabana Fort are a short walk the other way. The General Osorio metro station is close by.

Choosing a room: book an ocean-view room; the view of the surf and the sunset light along Ipanema is the reason to stay. Rooms are compact rather than grand, reflecting the building's origins, so travellers who need space should look at the larger categories. Street-side rooms are cheaper but give up the view.

What the stay is like: beach life from morning to evening, with a swim before breakfast, lunch at the arp bar, an afternoon on the sand and the sunset applause on the rock next door. The area is busy at sunset and on weekends, and the arp bar draws a lively crowd, so it is not the quietest address, but the energy is part of the charm.

Who it suits: couples and friends who want a stylish, informal beach hotel in the best location between Ipanema and Copacabana, surfers, and returning visitors. Those wanting full resort facilities, a large pool or a spa should look at the big Copacabana hotels.