Cosme Velho

JO and JOE Rio de Janeiro Largo do Boticario

★★★★★

JO and JOE, written JO&JOE, is Accor's brand of open houses that mix the social life and prices of a hostel with the comfort of a hotel, and its Rio outpost has one of the most unusual settings of any budget stay in the city. It occupies a historic building on the Largo do Boticario, a small, secluded square in the leafy neighbourhood of Cosme Velho, tucked into the forested slopes below Corcovado. The square, reached by a cobbled lane, is known for its pastel-coloured colonial-style houses and its quiet, almost village-like atmosphere, a world away from the beaches. Accommodation runs from beds in shared dormitories, a six-bed dorm for women and an eight-bed mixed dorm, to private double and twin rooms of around 13 square metres and a private room for four, which makes it a good choice for families and groups as well as solo travellers. All have air conditioning and Wi-Fi. The facilities are surprisingly generous for the price. Accor lists swimming pools, a restaurant and two bars, plus a coworking space for digital nomads, and breakfast is available. Guest reviews mention two large pools and a small one for children, surrounded by greenery. The social spaces are designed to bring guests together, with events and a lively bar scene. Cosme Velho is the neighbourhood of the Corcovado train station, where the cog railway climbs to Christ the Redeemer, so the hotel is one of the most convenient bases in the city for visiting the statue early, before the crowds. Santa Teresa, Laranjeiras and Largo do Machado are close, and Copacabana and the beaches are a short ride-hailing trip away. Accor lists the hotel at two stars, which reflects its simple rooms rather than its setting or its pools.

Choosing a room: solo travellers and backpackers will be happy in the dorms, with the women-only dorm an option. Couples should book a private double or twin, and families or groups of four can share the private room for four, which is excellent value. Rooms are simple and compact, so the pools and shared spaces are where you spend your time.

What the stay is like: social, green and relaxed, with mornings by the pool, early trips up to Christ the Redeemer, and evenings at the bar with other travellers. The neighbourhood is quiet and residential at night, without the beach-district buzz, so use ride-hailing cars for evenings out in Botafogo, Lapa or the beach districts, and do not walk the lanes late at night.

Who it suits: budget travellers, solo travellers, digital nomads and young families who want pools and atmosphere for a low price, and anyone who prizes an early start at Corcovado. It does not suit travellers who want to walk to the beach or who need hotel-level quiet and space.