Ubar is a legend of the Arabian desert: a rich trading city said to have vanished beneath the sands because of its pride. Stories about it appear in ancient texts and in later Arab tradition, and in the 1990s an expedition identified a site at Shisr, on the edge of the Empty Quarter, as a likely candidate. Excavations revealed a fortified settlement built around a limestone sinkhole that had collapsed, a caravan stop on the frankincense route. Whether or not Shisr is the true Ubar, it is a valuable archaeological site and one of the four components of the Land of Frankincense World Heritage Site. The ruins themselves are modest, with remains of walls and towers around a large depression, but the setting is evocative, with open desert on every side. A visitor centre nearby gives context to the story. Together with a desert safari, the visit adds a human and historical layer to the sand.
The journey
Shisr lies a long drive north of Salalah, across the mountains and the high plain, and a trip is usually a full day, often with a stop at Wadi Dawkah or the frankincense groves and a sunset in the dunes. Many operators combine Ubar with the Empty Quarter, since the two lie in the same direction, which gives a strong overview of the interior of Dhofar. Expect several hours of driving, with comfortable vehicles and stops.
What to see
Look for the outline of the fortified settlement, the walls and corner towers, and the sinkhole at the centre, which is thought to have given the place its water supply and later to have collapsed. Information panels explain the excavations and the possible links to the legendary city. The visitor facilities can include a small museum or exhibition, though opening arrangements may vary.
Managing expectations
This is not a spectacular monument in the way of a great fort or a cliff-top temple. Its value lies in the story, the atmosphere and the landscape. If you enjoy archaeology and tales of lost cities, it is a highlight, and a guide who can retell the legend and explain the scholarship makes a great difference. If you are mainly interested in dunes, a shorter desert trip may suit you better.
Practical tips
The interior is very hot in summer and cold at night in winter, so dress in layers appropriate to the season. Carry water, sun protection and a hat, and use the toilets and refreshments at the towns on the way, since facilities near the site are limited. Check road and weather conditions with your operator, and travel with a reputable company, as the route passes through remote areas. Respect the site by staying on marked paths and not removing stones or artefacts.
Making it a richer day
Bring a little background reading, or ask your guide to retell the story of the search for Ubar, including the use of satellite images to trace old caravan tracks. At the site, walk around the rim of the sinkhole to see the layers of limestone and the way the settlement was built around it. Afterwards, a stop in a desert town for tea or lunch is a pleasant break, and the return journey in the afternoon light is scenic.
What to expect
The experience
A long drive to the desert-edge ruins of Shisr, a sinkhole fortress linked to the legend of Ubar, often combined with the Empty Quarter.
Best time
The cool season, with an early start.
How long
A full day including the transfer.
Tips
Go with a reputable operator, carry water and dress for the season.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Archaeology lovers and legend hunters.
- Families
- Older children who can manage a long drive; the ruins are modest.
- Couples
- A thoughtful, adventurous day for curious couples.
- Pair with
- The Empty Quarter dunes and Wadi Dawkah.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
What is Ubar?+
A legendary lost city of the Arabian desert, often linked to the site at Shisr.
Is Shisr definitely Ubar?+
Scholars debate it, but the site is a genuine fortified caravan stop and a World Heritage component.
How long is the trip?+
A full day, with several hours of driving.
Is there a museum?+
There is a visitor facility near the site, but opening arrangements vary.
Can I combine it with the dunes?+
Yes. Many tours pair Shisr with the Empty Quarter and a sunset.