Calchaqui Valley Loop

The Valles Calchaquies are a chain of high valleys running north to south along the eastern foot of the Andes, and the road that follows them is part of Argentina's legendary Route 40. A two-day journey from Salta to Cafayate along this route is the best way to experience the region's variety. Day one typically climbs over the Cuesta del Obispo into Los Cardones National Park, visits Cachi and continues through villages such as Molinos, where a colonial church and an old hacienda stand beside a winery, and Angastaco, set among red rock formations. Day two descends through the Quebrada de las Flechas, a canyon of arrow-shaped rock spires, to Cafayate, where vineyards and wine tastings await, before returning to Salta via the Quebrada de las Conchas. The route is a tapestry of landscapes: cactus forest, desert plains, vineyards, river oases and tall mountains, with traditional villages along the way.

Why two days instead of two separate day trips? The loop removes the backtracking that comes with doing Cachi and Cafayate as separate out-and-back excursions, and it lets you stay overnight in a valley village, where evenings are quiet and skies are clear. It also reaches places that day trips skip, such as Molinos and Angastaco, which show a slower side of the valleys. Accommodation options range from simple guesthouses to boutique hotels and vineyard stays, and meals showcase regional dishes such as goat stew, empanadas, humitas and wines from the surrounding bodegas.

Planning is straightforward but worth thinking through. The route is long and sections can be unpaved, so a guided trip with a driver is the easiest way to enjoy it, and many operators include transfers, overnight accommodation and meals. If you drive yourself, allow plenty of time, fill the tank whenever you can, carry water and cash and check road conditions in the rainy season.

The best months are autumn and spring, when temperatures are comfortable and the light is soft, while winter days are clear but cold at night and summer afternoons can bring storms.

Combining the loop with the Quebrada de las Conchas on the return gives a satisfying circle. For anyone who wants more than a quick excursion, this journey captures the character of the northwest and is the one many travellers remember best.

Each stop has its own flavour. Molinos is known for its colonial church of San Pedro Nolasco, an old mansion that has been converted into a hotel, and weaving workshops where artisans make fine textiles. Angastaco is a small oasis village surrounded by red hills and vineyards, with a local winery and a lively festival tradition. The Quebrada de las Flechas, which you cross on the way to Cafayate, is a canyon of vertical rock fins that look like arrows pointing at the sky.

Between the villages, the road passes ancient sites, riverbeds and fields of paprika, grapes and corn. Allow time for lunch in a family restaurant, for conversations with local shopkeepers and for stopping whenever the light is irresistible.

For a more relaxed rhythm, consider adding a third day to linger in Cachi, Molinos or Cafayate. An extra night allows an unhurried winery visit, a walk among the cacti at dawn or a conversation with a weaver, which often become the highlights of the whole journey.