El Rey National Park

Parque Nacional El Rey is a protected area of roughly forty thousand hectares in the east of Salta province, a reserve of yungas cloud forest, grassland and rivers that shelters rare wildlife. It lies a long drive northeast of the city, reached by roads that pass through tobacco farms, forests and small villages before climbing into the park. The change in scenery is striking: instead of red rock and cactus, you find tall trees draped with epiphytes, ferns, streams and humid air. Animals include birds such as toucans and parrots, and mammals that are seldom seen but present, including tapirs, peccaries, pumas and, in rare cases, jaguars. A guided 4x4 day trip is the practical way to visit because roads are rough and distances long, and guides can read signs and find places where wildlife is likely to appear. Walks along short trails and visits to the park's lagoon and viewpoints fill the day.

The yungas have a different character from other parts of Salta. The forest forms a belt along the eastern slopes of the Andes where clouds condense and keep the vegetation green all year. Biodiversity is high, with many species of birds, butterflies and plants, and the park protects the habitat of animals that have vanished elsewhere.

Guides explain the importance of conservation, the ways in which local people use the forest and the challenges of protecting a large area with limited resources. The quiet is a joy, broken only by water, birds and wind in the canopy.

Plan carefully because this is a demanding excursion. The journey is long, the roads are unpaved in places and the weather can turn quickly, especially in summer, when heavy rains may block tracks. Wear long trousers, sturdy shoes and layers, and bring insect repellent, water and a camera with a good zoom. Do not expect a safari: animals are shy, and sightings are a bonus.

For birdwatchers, naturalists and travellers who love forests, the day is rewarding, while those who prefer culture and wine may find the long journey a stretch. A small number of lodges allow overnight stays, which give more time in the park and a better chance of seeing wildlife at dawn and dusk. It is a worthwhile contrast to the high deserts and vineyards that dominate most Salta itineraries.

Conservation is a theme of the visit. The park was created to protect a corner of the yungas that is under pressure from agriculture and logging in surrounding areas, and rangers work with local communities on monitoring and education. Entrance fees support these efforts, and visitors are asked to stay on trails, avoid feeding animals and take out all rubbish.

If you are interested in birds, bring binoculars and a guide to local species, as the park hosts many that are hard to find elsewhere. Even if you do not spot a tapir, the experience of walking through damp forest, hearing frogs and crossing clear streams is a refreshing change from the dry landscapes of the west and a reminder of how varied Salta's geography is.