El Manantial del Silencio

El Manantial del Silencio, which means the spring of silence, is a hotel in the Quebrada de Humahuaca in Jujuy province that trades on peace, scenery and the slow pace of the Andes. Staying in the valley instead of visiting on a day trip from Salta transforms the experience. You can watch the hills change colour at sunrise and sunset, walk quiet paths in the clear air, enjoy a dinner of local specialities and look up at an enormous sky of stars. Rooms and grounds in this type of lodge usually emphasise natural materials, warm interiors and views, with a restaurant that features regional ingredients such as quinoa, goat, corn and Andean potatoes. Guests who value rest and landscape more than nightlife will feel at home.

The strongest reason to stay overnight in the quebrada is time. Day tours from Salta spend many hours on the road and allow only short stops at the main sights. From a base in the valley, you can reach Purmamarca, Tilcara, Humahuaca and the Hornocal viewpoint on your own schedule, visit places early before the groups arrive and linger for photographs in golden light. You can also add walks, horse rides or visits to local artisans, and take part in the evening folk music that enlivens small village restaurants.

Planning needs a little care. The valley is at altitude, so expect strong sun, dry air and cool nights, and bring layers, sun protection and water. Take time on the first day to acclimatise, and talk to staff about coca tea and light meals if you feel headachy. Confirm how to get from Salta, since the transfer takes several hours and many travellers combine it with a tour.

Ask about heating in the colder months, and whether the hotel can arrange excursions to Hornocal or Salinas Grandes. Book ahead for Carnival in February, Easter and the winter holidays, when the valley is busy. For travellers who want to feel the quebrada rather than only see it, a night or two here is the best investment.

Dining in a lodge like this is generally simple and rooted in the valley. Expect dishes made with quinoa, corn, llama or goat, home-baked bread and local herbs, and ask for a hot tea made from Andean herbs in the evening. Because the setting is remote, meals are often booked in advance, so tell the staff of any dietary requirements as early as possible.

Combined with the silence and the stars, it makes for a restorative stay. Bring a torch or phone light for walking at night, and a warm hat, because the temperature drop after sunset is sharper than most visitors expect.