Yaxchilán and Bonampak are two of the most atmospheric Maya sites in Mexico, set deep in the Lacandon rainforest near the Guatemalan border. Yaxchilán stands on a bend of the Usumacinta River, reached by boat, with temples, carved lintels and a dark labyrinth of passages under the Great Plaza. Bonampak is known for its murals, which show scenes of court life, battle and ritual in brilliant colours. Day tours leave from Palenque, as the distances from San Cristóbal are too long for a single day, and travel through jungle and communities. Along the way you may see howler monkeys, toucans and macaws, particularly at Yaxchilán, where the forest comes right up to the stones. The journey is part of the adventure, and the sense of remoteness is a major attraction.
Yaxchilán: you arrive by a long boat across the river and walk a jungle path to the site. The structures include Temple 33, a hilltop temple with a carved roof comb, and a series of lintels with scenes of rulers and ceremonies. The trails are shaded, and there are plenty of places to look for wildlife. Bring a torch for the labyrinth, a hat and insect repellent. Guides explain the carvings and the history of the dynasty.
Bonampak
The murals are housed in a temple with three rooms, and the pictures show musicians, dancers, nobles and captives, painted in blue, red and yellow. They are fragile, and visitors usually see reproductions or the protected originals under controlled conditions. Even so, the site is notable for its history and the sense of discovery. Learn about the discovery of the murals in the twentieth century from your guide.
Practical details
The day is very long, with several hours of travel in each direction, so tours start at dawn. The Lacandon community controls access to part of the area, and fees are collected for entry and for the boat. Bring pesos for fees, food and tips, plus water, snacks and sun protection. Heat and humidity are high, and sudden rain is possible. Check road and river conditions, and follow all advice from your guide and the operator.
Is it for you
This trip suits travellers who like remote places and are comfortable with long days. For those with more time, a two-day option with a night in the jungle allows a gentler pace. Compared with Palenque, the sites are smaller but feel more wild, and fewer people visit. If you are short of time, choose either Palenque or Toniná. For a richer experience, include the Lacandon community visit that some tours offer, which introduces the Maya people who still live in the forest and care for it.
Carry small bills for fees collected at the river and community gates, and a plastic bag for wet items. Getting the most from the day: eat a solid breakfast, wear light clothes with long sleeves for the insects and carry a torch or headlamp. The river journey is a highlight in itself, with birds and sometimes crocodiles along the banks. Ask your guide about the Lacandon people and the efforts to protect the forest. If your schedule allows, consider the overnight version, which leaves time to enjoy the setting without the rush to return.
What to expect
The experience
A very long day from Palenque by road and river to two remote Maya sites in the rainforest.
Best time
Dry season, with a dawn start from Palenque.
How long
Twelve to fourteen hours door to door.
Tips
Take water, repellent and cash for fees, and start the day well rested.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Adventurous ruin lovers who want remote and wild sites.
- Families
- Older children can manage, but the day is long and hot.
- Couples
- A once-in-a-trip expedition to share.
- Pair with
- Palenque and Roberto Barrios.
- Time needed
- A full day from Palenque.
Good questions
Can I do this from San Cristóbal in one day?+
It is far too long. Most travellers base themselves in Palenque for this trip.
How do I reach Yaxchilán?+
By boat across the Usumacinta River, then a jungle walk to the site.
Are the Bonampak murals open?+
Visitors can see the murals under controlled conditions. Ask your guide.
Is it better as an overnight trip?+
A two-day option is more relaxed and lets you see more wildlife.
What should I bring?+
Repellent, a torch, a hat, water and pesos for fees.