Plaza 31 de Marzo is the heart of San Cristóbal de las Casas, and almost every walk in town begins or ends here. The square is laid out around a bandstand and a canopy of trees, with benches that fill each afternoon with local families, shoe-shiners, Tzotzil and Tzeltal women selling textiles and visitors resting after a day on the hills. On the north side stands the cathedral, a baroque church painted in warm ochre, rose and yellow, whose carved facade is one of the most photographed in the state. Around the other three sides run arcades with cafés, restaurants and the municipal palace, so there is always somewhere to sit and look. The town itself was founded in the early sixteenth century and served for centuries as the capital of the region, which explains the scale of the buildings around the square. It rewards slow exploration: the streets are narrow, the roofs are red tile and the mountains close in on every side. Because the centre is compact, the plaza makes a useful anchor for finding your bearings, meeting a guide or planning the rest of the day.
Visiting the cathedral
The church is free to enter and is used for daily worship, so keep voices low, remove hats and avoid taking photographs during services. Inside, the gilded altarpieces and painted pulpit are worth a few unhurried minutes. The facade is at its best in the late afternoon, when low sun picks out the carved columns and saints, and in the evening when it is lit up against the dark sky.
A short walk from the front steps brings you to the pedestrian streets that lead to the market, the Santo Domingo church and the Real de Guadalupe.
Best times
Early morning is calm, with cool air and few people, while Sunday afternoons are busy with families, music and street vendors. The square is also where many festivals and civic events are staged, so you may find a stage, a parade or a craft fair in progress.
The altitude is high, around 2,200 metres, and the evenings are cold for most of the year, so bring a jacket if you plan to sit outside after dark. Several cafés on the arcades have upstairs balconies that look over the plaza, which are excellent places for a late breakfast.
Getting your bearings
The grid of streets around the plaza makes the centre easy to navigate. Walking streets lead north toward the Santo Domingo church and the artisan market, east toward the Real de Guadalupe and its hilltop church, and south toward the Mercado Municipal. Most hotels, tour offices and restaurants lie within a ten minute stroll, which means you can leave transport for the day trips. Pick-up points for many group tours are close to the plaza, so confirm the meeting spot the evening before.
Practical tips
Carry some small coins for the vendors and for church donations, watch your belongings in the busiest moments, and be polite when photographing people, since many of the women who sell here prefer to be asked first. A tip of a few pesos is welcome if you take a portrait. If you are unsure where to begin on a first visit, a morning on the plaza followed by a guided walk is a gentle introduction to the town.
What to expect
The experience
A free stroll around the square, the cathedral and the arcades, with plenty of places to sit.
Best time
Early morning for calm, or late afternoon for the best light on the cathedral facade.
How long
One to two hours, longer if you stop for coffee.
Tips
Dress in layers, keep voices low inside the cathedral and ask before photographing people.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors who want an easy orientation and a good coffee spot.
- Families
- Open space for children to run, with bandstand and benches.
- Couples
- An evening stroll under the lights is a classic way to end a day.
- Pair with
- The Santo Domingo church and the artisan market, a short walk north.
- Time needed
- An hour or two.
Good questions
Is the plaza free?+
Yes. The square and the cathedral are free to enter, although a small donation is appreciated in the church.
What is the plaza called?+
Its name is Plaza 31 de Marzo, though most people simply call it the Zócalo or the main square.
Can I visit the cathedral during Mass?+
You may enter quietly, but photography and wandering are discouraged while a service is in progress.
Is it a good place for a meal?+
Yes. The arcades hold cafés and restaurants with Chiapas dishes, local coffee and fresh juices, and prices vary by the spot.
How cold does it get at night?+
The altitude makes evenings cool all year and cold in winter, so bring a jacket or a sweater.