Long before tourists arrived, the oasis of San Pedro de Atacama was home to the Atacameno, or Lickanantay, people, and two archaeological sites close to the village tell their story. The Pukara de Quitor is a stone fortress built on a hill about 3 km from the village, dating from the 12th century. From its terraces and walls, defenders could see anyone approaching along the Rio San Pedro valley, and the site is famous as a place of resistance during the 16th-century Spanish conquest. A short climb of around fifteen minutes takes you to the top, where the view over the oasis, the green river corridor and the dry plains beyond is excellent. The Aldea de Tulor is a very different place. It is a village of rounded adobe structures, built and rebuilt over many centuries and thought to date from around 800 BC, buried beneath drifting sand for long periods before being excavated. Its small, joined chambers and low walls show how people lived in a harsh environment, using local materials and clever design. Guides explain the layout, the building methods and the relationship between Tulor and the farming oasis, and it is a quiet, atmospheric place, especially in the late afternoon.
How it works
Both sites lie within a short drive or bike ride of San Pedro, and many visitors combine them with a Valle de la Luna tour, since Tulor is on the way. Entry tickets are inexpensive, and a guide adds a great deal of context, so a guided half-day is worthwhile. Hours and access can vary, and some areas are managed by local Atacameno communities, so check before you go and respect any rules.
What to expect
The climb at the Pukara is steep in places and the ground is loose, so wear sturdy shoes and take water. At Tulor, paths are flat but the sun is fierce, and there is little shade. Do not climb on the walls or remove anything from the sites, since these are fragile and protected. Photographers will enjoy the textures of stone and adobe in the low light, and the views from the Pukara at sunset or in the morning.
Making the most of it
Go early or late in the day to avoid midday heat, and consider combining the visit with a stroll in the village, the museum and a long lunch. If you cycle, remember the sun and wind, and carry enough water. The sites make more sense if you first read a little about the Atacameno culture, its irrigation systems and trade routes across the Andes, and a good guide brings this to life. Visiting these places early in your trip helps you understand everything else you will see.
What to expect
The experience
A guided visit to a hilltop fortress and an ancient adobe village, with short walks and good views.
Best time
Morning or late afternoon, to avoid midday heat.
How long
Three to four hours including travel.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes, carry water and sun protection, and follow site rules.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who want to understand the human history behind the landscape.
- Families
- Children who like climbing and exploring will enjoy the Pukara.
- Couples
- Sunset views from the fortress are a quiet highlight for couples.
- Pair with
- Pair it with the village museum and a Valle de la Luna tour.
- Time needed
- Allow half a day.
Good questions
What is the Pukara de Quitor?+
It is a 12th-century stone fortress on a hill near San Pedro de Atacama, built by the Atacameno people.
How old is Tulor?+
Estimates date the village from around 800 BC, and it was occupied for many centuries.
Is the climb hard?+
It is short, about fifteen minutes, but steep and loose in places.
Do I need a guide?+
Not required, but a guide adds a lot of context and makes the sites easier to understand.
Can I cycle there?+
Yes, both sites can be reached by bike, though the sun and wind make it demanding.