Akrotiri Lighthouse

At the very end of the Akrotiri peninsula, where the road runs out on a bare headland high above the sea, stands Santorini's most romantic lighthouse. Faros Akrotiriou was built in 1892 by a French lighthouse company, as one of a network of lights that guided ships around the Greek islands. It went dark during the Second World War and was relit in 1945; it was electrified in 1983 and fully automated in 1988, and it still flashes its white light out over the Aegean every few seconds. The building itself, a sturdy stone keeper's house with a short tower, is not open to the public, but you do not come here to go inside. You come for the view and the sunset. From the headland you look north along the entire curve of the caldera, with its cliffs, the white villages of Fira, Imerovigli and Oia strung along the rim, the dark volcanic islands in the bay and Thirasia closing the circle on the far side. To the west and south there is nothing but open sea. As the sun sets, the cliffs turn pink and orange and the lights of the villages come on one by one. Discover Greece says that possibly the most personal sunset on the island is from the Akrotiri lighthouse, and it is easy to see why: there are no rooftop bars, no hawkers and no shops, just rocks, wind, sea and sky. It is honest to say that the lighthouse is no longer a secret. In summer, cars, scooters and tour minibuses gather on the headland for sunset, and the narrow road and small parking area become crowded. Even so, the atmosphere is far gentler than the crush in Oia, and outside July and August you may share it with only a handful of people.

Getting there: the lighthouse is about eighteen kilometres from Fira, past Akrotiri village and the archaeological site, at the end of a narrow road across the peninsula. Most people drive, ride a scooter or take a taxi; some sunset tours include it. Public buses go as far as Akrotiri but not to the lighthouse itself, and walking the last stretch along the road is not pleasant in the dark. Arrive at least forty-five minutes before sunset in summer to find parking, and be very careful on the return drive, when many cars leave at once on an unlit, winding road.

What to bring and safety: there are no facilities at all, so bring water, a picnic if you like, and a jacket, because the wind on the headland can be strong and cold even in summer. The ground is rough and there are steep drops to the sea with no fences; stay well back from the edges, especially with children, and do not climb on the lighthouse walls. Photographers should bring a wide lens for the caldera panorama. It is a lovely spot in winter too, when the sunset is earlier, the air is clear and you may have it entirely to yourself, though the wind can make it bitter.

Making an evening of it: combine the lighthouse with a late-afternoon visit to Akrotiri archaeological site, which closes earlier in the day, and a swim at one of the south-coast beaches, then drive out for sunset and finish with a seafood dinner at one of the tavernas around Akrotiri village or the south coast on the way back. Note that Red Beach nearby has had access restrictions because of rockfall risk; admire it from the viewpoint and follow local signs rather than going down to the sand.