Vlychada Beach and Marina

Most of Santorini's beaches are defined by dark volcanic sand, but Vlychada adds something unforgettable behind it: a long wall of pale, soft pumice and ash cliffs, eroded by wind and rain into ridges, hollows and fluted columns that look more like a desert canyon than a Greek island. These are the layers laid down by the great Bronze Age eruption, and walking along the base of them gives you a sense of the scale of that event that no museum panel can. The Municipal Port Fund of Thira sums it up neatly: white volcanic rocks and black sand compose a unique setting for a swim. The beach stretches along the south coast between Perivolos and the Akrotiri peninsula. It is long and fairly broad, with a section of sunbeds and a beach bar in summer and plenty of open space beyond, so it rarely feels crowded even in August. The water deepens gradually over sand and fine gravel and is usually clear. Next to it lies the Vlychada fishing shelter and marina, run by the Municipal Port Fund, which provides berths for small boats and pleasure craft; it is also the departure point for many of the island's catamaran and sailing cruises, so you may well start a boat trip here. Close to the beach, a former tomato-processing factory has been preserved and now hosts cultural events, a reminder that Santorini's famous small tomatoes were once an important industry on this coast. Vlychada is about ten kilometres from Fira and a few kilometres from the airport. It has a laid-back, slightly remote feel, with a few tavernas around the marina, and it is a good choice for travellers who find Perissa too busy and want space, scenery and a calmer swim.

Things to know before you go: the cliffs are fragile. They are made of compacted ash and pumice that crumble easily, so do not climb them, dig into them or sit directly beneath overhangs; erosion is constant and pieces do fall, particularly after rain. The beach is exposed to the wind, and on blustery days the sand can sting, so check the forecast and choose a sheltered beach on the other side of the island if the southerly wind is up. There is limited shade beyond the rented umbrellas, and the black sand gets very hot, so bring sandals, water and sun protection.

Seasons: the beach is free and accessible all year, but the sunbed concession and beach bar are seasonal, operating roughly from late spring to early autumn, and some marina tavernas reduce their hours or close in winter. From November to March the beach is a wonderful place for a long walk under the cliffs, but you should bring your own picnic. Catamaran departures from the marina thin out in late autumn and are weather-dependent, so check with your operator if you are visiting in the shoulder season.

Getting there and combining it: Vlychada is easiest by car, scooter or taxi; some buses serve the area in summer but they are less frequent than those to Kamari or Perissa, so check the timetable at the Fira bus station. There is parking near the marina. Pair it with a visit to Akrotiri and the lighthouse on the same side of the island, or with Emporio village a short drive inland, and end the day with a seafood dinner by the marina. If you are booked on a catamaran cruise from the marina, arrive early and spend an hour on the beach first.