Ancient Thera on Mesa Vouno

High on the ridge of Mesa Vouno, between the black-sand beaches of Kamari and Perissa, lie the remains of the city that ruled Santorini for well over a thousand years. Ancient Thera was founded around the eighth century BC by Dorian settlers, who chose this steep promontory for its natural defences and its command of the sea on both sides. The city grew over the centuries into a lively place with sanctuaries, temples, an agora, a theatre, public buildings, shops and houses, all linked by a main street with a drainage system that you can still trace. In the Hellenistic period it served as a base for the Ptolemies of Egypt, and life continued here through Roman and early Christian times; ruined churches and houses show the site was still in use as late as the ninth century AD. The experience is quite unlike Akrotiri. There is no roof and no walkway: you follow a rough path along the spine of the ridge, past the foundations of houses and shops, the open terrace of the agora, the small theatre with the sea dropping away behind the stage, and the sanctuary terraces at the southern end, where very early Greek inscriptions were cut into the rock. What makes the visit, though, is the setting. From the top you look straight down onto Kamari on one side and Perissa on the other, across the airport and the vineyards to the caldera rim, and out over the open Aegean towards Anafi. On a clear day it is one of the great viewpoints of the Cyclades. It is a site for people who enjoy walking and atmosphere rather than polished displays. It is exposed to the sun and the strong north wind, there is very little shade, and the path is uneven, so good shoes, a hat and water matter more here than almost anywhere else on the island.

Getting there: a narrow road climbs from Kamari in a series of tight hairpin bends to a small car park below the entrance, and from there it is a steady walk uphill to the gate and on along the ridge. Drivers should take it slowly and expect to reverse for buses in summer. You can also walk up on old paths: Hellenic Heritage puts the climb from Kamari at a little over an hour, and warns that it is demanding, especially in strong northerly winds. Another path climbs from Perissa via the saddle of Sellada, which means you can walk up from one beach and down to the other. In high season some tour operators run small shuttles from Kamari; they come and go with demand, so ask locally.

Seasons and winter: this is the most seasonal of Santorini's ancient sites, so read this before planning. According to the official Hellenic Heritage listing, from April to October the site opens from early morning to mid-afternoon every day except Wednesday. In November it opens only from Friday to Sunday; from December to the end of February it is open by appointment only, arranged with the Ephorate of Antiquities by phone; in March it returns to the summer pattern. The full ticket is about ten euros with a reduced rate, bookable online through the official platform, and there are the usual free-entry days, including the first and third Sundays of the winter months when the site is open. The last admission is twenty minutes before closing, and on a site this long you will want much more than that.

How to get the most from it: go early in the day, when the light is softer and the wind usually lighter, and allow two hours from the car park including the walk. Visit the Archaeological Museum of Thera in Fira before or after, because that is where the statues, pottery and grave goods from this city are displayed. Then come down for a swim and a late lunch at Kamari or Perissa, which feels well earned after the climb. Families with older children who like scrambling will enjoy it; it is not a good choice for anyone with mobility problems or for toddlers in buggies.