Firostefani Caldera Walk

Walk north from the centre of Fira along the cliff-top path and, after a few minutes, the crowds thin, the shops give way to houses and small hotels, and you find yourself in Firostefani. The Municipal Port Fund of Thira describes it as a natural extension of Fira, with views of the caldera and many dining options, and that is a good summary: it is close enough to the capital to walk to in ten or fifteen minutes, yet calm enough to feel like a village. The name is often explained as the crown of Fira, because it sits on a slightly higher stretch of the rim, and the views from here are among the finest on the island, taking in the cliffs of Fira to the south, the rock of Skaros and Imerovigli to the north, and the volcanic islands in the bay below. For many visitors Firostefani is where the caldera finally looks the way it does in photographs. Whitewashed cave houses and hotels tumble down the cliff in terraces, linked by stairways; blue-domed churches and bell towers stand out against the deep blue of the bay; and the path itself is a pleasure, paved, mostly level and lined with places to stop for a coffee or a glass of wine. In the evening the restaurants along the rim are among the best places on the island to watch the sun go down over the caldera with dinner, at a fraction of the crush of Oia. It is also the first leg of the famous caldera walk from Fira to Oia, so you can treat it as a short stroll on its own or the start of something longer: on to Imerovigli and Skaros Rock, or all the way to Oia for the full hike.

How to do it: start at the cathedral or the top of the cable car in Fira and follow the caldera path north. The walk to Firostefani is short and mostly gentle, with a few steps and slopes, and you can continue another twenty to thirty minutes to Imerovigli. Take your time: the stops for photographs are half the point. Wear comfortable shoes, carry water in summer, and remember that the path passes in front of private hotel terraces, so stay on the public walkway and avoid stepping onto pools and balconies for photos, which hotels understandably dislike.

When to go: early morning is magical, with soft light and almost no one on the path; late afternoon and sunset are the most atmospheric but also the busiest. In high summer, avoid the middle of the day, when there is little shade. In winter, Firostefani is one of the easiest caldera walks to enjoy, because it starts in Fira, which stays lived-in all year with buses, shops and restaurants. Many of the cliff-side hotels and some restaurants close from November to March, so expect quieter terraces, but the views are, if anything, clearer.

Staying and eating here: Firostefani is a popular base for travellers who want caldera views without the busiest parts of Fira, and it is close enough to walk to the bus station and the capital's nightlife. Restaurants along the rim are not cheap, but a sunset aperitif costs far less than a full dinner. If you have time for one simple caldera experience on Santorini, a sunset walk from Fira to Firostefani and back is it. It costs nothing, needs no booking and shows you the caldera at its most beautiful, which is more than can be said for many paid experiences on the island.