Carmona Day Trip

Carmona sits on a ridge rising above the vast, flat farmland of the Vega, about thirty minutes east of Seville, and it has been fortified for as long as people have lived in Andalusia: Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Castilians all held it, and each left a layer. It is one of the most rewarding small towns within easy reach of the city, and almost everything worth seeing is free or costs very little. The visit begins at the Puerta de Sevilla, a massive gateway fortress at the western end of the walls, whose foundations go back to Carthaginian and Roman times and which the Moors rebuilt as an alcázar. The town's tourist office is inside, and from it you can climb the stairs and battlements to the Torre del Oro, the Gold Tower, with one of the best panoramic views of Carmona and the plain. From there, the old town climbs uphill through whitewashed streets, small squares and noble houses, with many churches and convents, including the Gothic Church of Santa María, built on the site of the old mosque, whose orange-tree patio survives. At the top, on the eastern edge, the ruined Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro, the fortress-palace of Pedro I, the same king who built the Real Alcázar in Seville, has been turned into a parador, a state-run hotel; non-guests can usually have a drink or a meal on its terrace, with one of the most spectacular views in Andalusia over the Vega. Nearby, the Puerta de Córdoba, a Roman gate remodelled over the centuries, opens onto the old Roman road east. On the outskirts of the town, the Roman necropolis is one of the best-preserved in Andalusia, with tunnels, corridors and chamber tombs cut into the rock.

Getting there: buses run regularly from Seville to Carmona, a journey of under an hour, and there are organised excursions that combine the town with a guide. By car, it is about thirty minutes by motorway, and the area around the parador at the top of the town is the easiest place to park. Once there, Carmona is compact and walkable, although the climb from the Puerta de Sevilla to the parador is steady, so wear comfortable shoes. Allow at least half a day; a full day lets you see the necropolis, have lunch and enjoy the view from the parador at sunset.

What it costs: walking the old town is free. The climb at the Puerta de Sevilla and the Roman necropolis charge little or nothing, depending on your nationality and the day, and the churches may ask a small fee for visits. Check current opening hours at the tourist office in the Puerta de Sevilla when you arrive, especially for the necropolis, which keeps limited hours and, like many sites run by the Junta de Andalucía, may be closed on Mondays.

Why go: Carmona gives you the feeling of a historic Andalusian town without the crowds of Ronda or the travel time of Granada, and it is an easy add-on for anyone who has seen the main sights of Seville. Couples love the parador terrace for a drink or lunch with the view; history lovers can trace Roman, Moorish and Castilian Carmona in a single walk; families enjoy the battlements and the tunnels of the necropolis. If you only have time for one countryside excursion, Ronda and Córdoba are the bigger names, but if you want something short, easy and genuine, Carmona is the answer. Pair it with Itálica for a Roman-themed couple of days, or stay a night at the parador to see the plain at dawn, when the light on the fields is at its most beautiful.