Barrio de Santa Cruz

Hotel Casa 1800 Sevilla

★★★★★

Casa 1800 is the kind of hotel people return to Seville for. It occupies a beautifully restored nineteenth-century house on the Calle Rodrigo Caro, a quiet lane in the Barrio de Santa Cruz just 130 metres from the Cathedral and the Giralda, and it has the feel of a gracious private home rather than a hotel. The house is built around a classic Sevillian patio with galleries on the upper floors, and it has been restored with care to keep its period character while adding modern comforts. Rooms vary in size and style, from cosy doubles to deluxe premium rooms and suites, and they are furnished in a classic, elegant style in keeping with the house. Two touches make the hotel special. The first is the complimentary afternoon snack, a merienda or tea time served in the patio each afternoon, a lovely moment to rest between the morning and evening halves of a Seville day. The second is the rooftop: a terrace and pool with views of the Cathedral and the Giralda, which guests describe as one of the highlights of their stay, especially at sunset and when the tower is floodlit. Breakfast is a buffet served in the patio. Service is personal and attentive, with staff who are generous with recommendations for restaurants, tapas bars and flamenco. The location could hardly be better for first-timers: the Alcázar, the Cathedral and the lanes of Santa Cruz are all within a few minutes on foot, and the bars of Mateos Gago are around the corner.

Who it suits: couples, first-time visitors and anyone who wants the charm of a historic house and a rooftop view without the scale of a big hotel. It is also good for small families who want a central, walkable base, provided they do not need large rooms. It is less suited to those who want a full-service spa, a gym or a big pool; the rooftop pool is for cooling off and enjoying the view.

Living in it: ask for one of the larger or brighter room categories if you are staying several nights, and request a room away from the patio if you are a light sleeper, as sound can carry in traditional patio houses. Plan to be back in the afternoon for the merienda, then go up to the roof for sunset before heading out to dinner. The hotel is in a pedestrian area, so taxis drop off nearby; staff will advise on the best approach and help with luggage. Book well ahead for spring, Holy Week and the April Fair.

Value: rates are in the upper-middle range for Seville, and good value for the location and the included afternoon tea. Prices rise sharply during Holy Week and the Feria. There is no tourist tax in Seville at present. The value case is a central, characterful boutique hotel where the little rituals — tea in the patio, a swim with the Giralda in view — become the memories of the trip.