El Arenal / Museo

Hotel Colon Gran Melia

★★★★★

The Hotel Colón opened in 1929 for the Ibero-American Exposition, and for most of the twentieth century it was the hotel of Seville's bullfighting world: matadors dressed here before fights at the nearby Maestranza, and artists, singers and celebrities followed. Today it is a five-star member of The Leading Hotels of the World, run by Meliá under its Gran Meliá banner, and it combines that history with a confident contemporary style. The building is neoclassical, crowned by a modernist dome of stained glass that lights the central hall, and the interiors mix tradition and modernity, with rooms that play on the colours of Seville and on designers such as Philippe Starck and Marcel Wanders. El Burladero, the hotel's tavern, honours the bullfighting heritage with Andalusian tapas and an à la carte menu in a room themed on the ring, while the Colón Grand Café is the place for breakfast and lighter meals. The Spa by Clarins offers a sauna, Turkish bath, contrast shower, massages and beauty treatments, a welcome reset after a day of sightseeing. At the top of the building, a small heated boutique pool looks over the rooftops — more a place to cool off and soak up the views than to swim lengths, but a real pleasure in a city with long, hot summers. The RedLevel service, Meliá's premium tier, covers the upper categories of rooms and suites, several with private terraces and outdoor bathtubs, with a dedicated lounge and personalised service. The location, on the Calle Canalejas in the El Arenal and Museo area, puts the Cathedral a short walk away, the shopping streets of Sierpes and Tetuán within minutes, and the Museo de Bellas Artes and the river close by.

Who it suits: travellers who want five-star polish, a spa and a central location without the formality of a palace hotel; it is a strong choice for couples and for anyone visiting for Holy Week or the bullfighting season, when the area around the Maestranza is at its most atmospheric. Families are welcome, and the hotel features in Meliá's family-friendly listings for Seville. Business travellers appreciate the efficient service and meeting facilities.

Living in it: RedLevel is worth the upgrade if you want a terrace and the extra service, especially for a special occasion. Book spa treatments ahead. The rooftop pool is small, so go early or late in the day for the best chance of space. Ask for a room on a higher floor for light and views. The surrounding streets have some of Seville's best traditional tapas bars, and the Plaza de la Magdalena and the shopping streets are on the doorstep. The Plaza de Armas bus station is nearby, convenient for day trips.

Value: rates are in the upper range for Seville and rise steeply during Holy Week and the April Fair; outside those periods, and in the heat of July and August, deals can be good. Seville has no tourist tax at present. The value case is five-star service, a spa and a rooftop pool in a characterful historic building, for less than the city's very top palace hotels.