Triana

Hotel Ribera de Triana

★★★★★

For travellers who want a pool, river views and a more local neighbourhood at a fair price, the Ribera de Triana is a smart choice. It stands on the Plaza de Chapina at the northern edge of Triana, on the west bank of the Guadalquivir, and it is a contemporary four-star hotel built for comfort rather than history. Its best feature is the rooftop, which has a pool and solarium and a bar-terrace with views over the river to the old town's main monuments — a fine place for a swim on a hot afternoon and a drink at sunset, when the light falls on the water and the skyline. The rooftop restaurant serves the breakfast buffet, so you start the day with a view, and there is also an indoor bar. Rooms come in several categories, including river-view and city-view rooms and newer-style rooms, with modern furnishings and good bathrooms; the river-view rooms are the ones to request. There is a gym, and paid parking on site, which is a real advantage in a city where parking in the historic centre is difficult — useful if you are touring Andalusia by car. The location puts you within walking distance of the heart of Triana — the market, the ceramics district and the bars of the Calle San Jacinto and the Calle Betis — and the old town is across the bridge, around twenty minutes on foot to the Cathedral, or a short taxi ride. The atmosphere is relaxed and practical, with friendly service, and the hotel is popular with families, couples and travellers who want a modern base with facilities rather than a historic house.

Who it suits: families, drivers, and travellers who value a pool and space over a postcard address; it is also a good choice in the heat of summer, when a rooftop pool makes a real difference. It suits visitors who want to experience Triana, with its local bars and flamenco roots, as their home neighbourhood. It is less suited to those who want to step out of the door into the monuments, since the walk to the Cathedral is around twenty minutes.

Living in it: ask for a river-view room on a higher floor for the best outlook. Use the rooftop pool in the afternoon heat and the terrace bar at sunset. Walk into Triana for dinner rather than eating in the hotel: the tapas bars of the Calle San Jacinto and the Calle Betis are some of the best value in the city. To reach the old town, walk along the river and cross the Triana Bridge, or take a taxi; the riverside walk is lovely in the evening. If you have a car, parking on site saves considerable trouble.

Value: rates are mid-range for Seville and good for the facilities, with the usual sharp rises during Holy Week and the April Fair, when Triana is also busy. There is no tourist tax in Seville at present. The value case is a rooftop pool, river views and parking at a price that would buy a much smaller room in the old town.