Katong and Joo Chiat

Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong

★★★★★

Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong is the best way to stay in Singapore's Peranakan heartland rather than just visiting it. The hotel stands on East Coast Road, on grounds that once belonged to the old Joo Chiat Police Station, in the middle of the neighbourhood famous for its pastel shophouses, Katong laksa, Nyonya kueh and heritage shops. Like every Hotel Indigo, it takes its design from its surroundings, and here that means Peranakan culture: the rooms draw on the community's history with bright tiled patterns, carved details, colourful fabrics and touches inspired by beadwork and porcelain, while staying modern and comfortable. The headline feature is the rooftop infinity pool, which looks out across the low roofs of Katong, an unusual and very pleasant view in a city of towers, especially at sunset. Dining is led by Baba Chews, the hotel's bar and eatery, which is a relaxed place for a Peranakan-inspired meal or a drink, though the real pleasure of staying here is eating out: the laksa shops, bakeries, kueh shops and restaurants of East Coast Road and Joo Chiat Road are a few minutes' walk, and Geylang Serai's market and food centre are close. Marine Parade MRT on the Thomson-East Coast Line is about five minutes away, linking quickly to the city, and East Coast Park's seaside cycling paths are a short walk south. Changi Airport is around fifteen minutes by car, which makes it a smart first or last night. The trade-off is distance from Marina Bay, but for a second or longer stay, or for food-focused travellers, it is a characterful, good-value choice.

The hotel suits travellers who want neighbourhood life over skyline views. Mornings can start with kaya toast or a bowl of laksa down the road, afternoons with a swim on the roof, and evenings with a walk to Koon Seng Road's terrace houses as the light softens. The design is fun without being kitsch, and the staff are generally good at local recommendations.

Room craft: standard rooms are compact but well designed; Premier rooms add space and, on higher floors, better views over the neighbourhood. Ask for a room facing away from the main road if you are a light sleeper. The hotel allows one small dog under a pet package booked in advance, unusual in Singapore. There is no free shuttle, and parking is at the adjacent mall for a charge.

Practicals: 86 East Coast Road, Katong; check-in from 3pm; about fifteen minutes by car to Changi Airport and around twenty to twenty-five minutes to Marina Bay. Fit: foodies, culture lovers, couples and families who want a quieter, local base, plus anyone with an early flight.