If the harbour is Saint-Tropez on show, the Place des Lices is Saint-Tropez at home. This broad square sits a short walk inland from the port, shaded by tall plane trees and lined with cafes, and it is the place where residents meet for coffee, gossip and games of petanque. Twice a week, on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, it hosts the town's main market, with stalls of fruit and vegetables, cheese, olives, flowers, linen, leather goods and souvenirs. Entry is free, and it is one of the most enjoyable ways to see ordinary life in a famous place.
How to visit
Walk inland from the port through the lanes, or follow the signs from the main road. The market runs in the morning, and arriving early is best, as the produce is freshest and the crowds thinner. By midday, stalls are packing up and tables fill with lunchtime diners. On other days, the square is quieter but still pleasant, with petanque players under the trees and cafes catering to locals. Bring a market bag and small change, and take your time wandering between stalls.
What to look for
The food stalls offer tomatoes, peaches, melons, herbs, olives, tapenade, goat cheeses, sausages, honey and bread, and in season there are local specialities such as figs and mimosa. Non-food stalls sell linens, hats, sandals, ceramics, soaps and flowers. Prices vary, with some stalls aimed at tourists and others at locals, so look for the busy ones where residents queue. Around the square, cafes and bakeries are good for breakfast. Watch the petanque matches, which are serious business, and ask politely before taking photographs of players.
Making the most of it
Buy picnic supplies for the beach, such as bread, cheese, tomatoes and fruit, and carry a cool bag in summer. Sample before you buy where offered, and ask the stallholders for tips on what is in season. Stay for a coffee at one of the cafes, and note the festive atmosphere.
If you want to bring home gifts, consider olive oil, herbs, soap, linen or a small ceramic, and compare a few stalls before committing. Bargaining is not customary for food, but for non-food items a polite request can sometimes help.
Who it suits
Food lovers, families, couples and curious travellers. Children enjoy the colour and the chance to taste, and the square offers space to run. It is also a handy stop for self-caterers staying in villas or apartments, who can stock up for the week. People with mobility needs will find the square flat and the surfaces reasonably smooth, though crowded at peak times. If you prefer a guided approach, a food tour will introduce you to local shops, and the market makes a good complement.
Good to know
Market days and hours can vary with the season and local events, so confirm the schedule with the tourist office. Parking near the square is limited and the traffic around it can be heavy, so walk from the port or use a car park a short way out. In July and August, expect crowds and heat. Keep your belongings secure, and carry cash as well as a card, since small stalls may not take cards. Outside market days the square is still worth a stop for the shade and the atmosphere.
What to expect
The experience
A morning stroll through the plane-tree square and its Tuesday and Saturday market, followed by coffee and a look at the petanque games.
Best time
Tuesday or Saturday morning, early for the freshest produce.
How long
1 to 2 hours
Tips
Bring cash, a market bag and a cool bag for picnic supplies in summer.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers and anyone who wants to see local life.
- Families
- Children enjoy the colours and tastes; the square gives space to run.
- Couples
- A relaxed morning with coffee and a picnic to take to the beach.
- Pair with
- A beach picnic at Pampelonne or a food tour.
- Time needed
- 1 to 2 hours
Good questions
When is the market held?+
The main market takes place on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, but check the schedule with the tourist office as it can vary.
Is the square worth visiting outside market days?+
Yes, for the shade, the cafes and the petanque games, though it is much quieter.
Can I pay by card?+
Many stalls prefer cash, so carry small notes and coins.
Is it good for a picnic?+
Yes, the market is an excellent place to buy bread, cheese, fruit and olives for the beach.
How far is it from the port?+
It is a short walk inland, usually around ten minutes through the lanes.