Blue Mountains and Scenic World

The Blue Mountains are the essential day trip from Sydney: a vast plateau of sandstone cliffs, deep forested valleys and waterfalls that begins about ninety minutes to two hours west of the city and forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage area, inscribed in 2000 for its eucalypt diversity. The blue of the name comes from the haze of eucalyptus oil in the air, which tints the distant ridges. Katoomba, the main town, sits on the edge of the escarpment above the Jamison Valley, and two sights there define the visit. Echo Point lookout faces the Three Sisters, a trio of sandstone pillars with deep significance in the stories of the Gundungurra and Darug peoples, and the view across the valley to Mount Solitary is one of the great landscapes of Australia. A short drive or walk along the cliffs is Scenic World, a family-run attraction that has been taking visitors into the valley for generations. Its Scenic Railway, originally built in the late nineteenth century to haul coal and oil shale, descends 310 metres through a cliff-side tunnel into the rainforest with a steepest section of 52 degrees, which makes it the steepest passenger railway in the world. At the bottom, the Scenic Walkway, about 2.4 kilometres of elevated boardwalk, winds through ancient rainforest past old mining relics. The Scenic Cableway carries you back up the cliffs in a large cable car, and the Scenic Skyway glides across the gorge 270 metres above the valley floor, with a glass floor panel that turns transparent mid-ride and views of Katoomba Falls and the Three Sisters. One unlimited-rides pass covers all four, and booking online in advance secures a time slot on busy days.

There are three ways to do the Blue Mountains. The first is by train: services run from Central Station to Katoomba in about two hours, at public transport prices, and the hop-on hop-off Explorer Bus or local buses link the station, Echo Point and Scenic World. This is the cheapest way and lets you walk between lookouts at your own pace. The second is by hire car, which lets you visit the villages of Leura and Wentworth Falls, the Blue Mountains Botanic Garden at Mount Tomah, or the Jenolan Caves further west. The third is a guided day tour from Sydney, which handles transport and usually combines Scenic World, Echo Point, a village stop and sometimes a wildlife park; Tiqets sells Scenic World passes and combinations, including one that adds a harbour cruise back in Sydney.

Walking is the heart of the mountains. From Echo Point, the Giant Stairway descends some 900 steps beside the Three Sisters into the valley and connects with the Federal Pass track to Scenic World, where you can ride the Railway back up instead of climbing — one of the best half-day walks in Australia. At Wentworth Falls, the cliff-top tracks and the National Pass, cut into the cliff face, are spectacular. Tracks close from time to time for maintenance or after storms and bushfires, so check the NSW National Parks alerts page for the area before setting out. Wear proper shoes: the stairs are steep and can be wet.

When to go: the mountains are several degrees cooler than Sydney, which makes them a welcome escape in summer, but carry a layer at any time of year. Spring brings flowering heath and waratahs, autumn the colours of the European gardens in Leura and Mount Wilson, and winter crisp, clear days. Mist can fill the valleys on some days; it is beautiful but hides the views, so watch the forecast. On weekends and school holidays Scenic World and Echo Point are crowded by mid-morning; start early or come late in the afternoon. Stay overnight in Leura or Katoomba if you can, to see the sunset glow on the cliffs and to walk in the quiet of the morning.