Circular Quay to Manly Ferry

The Manly ferry is the trip that locals recommend first, and they are right. Route F1 of the Sydney Ferries network runs from Circular Quay to Manly Wharf on the harbour's north side, and the crossing, about half an hour on the big ferries, is a complete tour of Sydney Harbour for the price of a public transport fare. Board at Circular Quay, find a seat outside on the front or side decks, and watch the city unfold: the Opera House sliding past on the right, the Bridge behind, Fort Denison on its island, the mansions and coves of the eastern suburbs, Bradleys Head, and then the open stretch where the harbour meets the Pacific between North Head and South Head. When a swell is running, the ferry rolls through it, which is half the fun. Manly itself is a proper seaside town. From the wharf, the Corso, a pedestrian street of cafes, surf shops and pubs, runs across the narrow isthmus to Manly Beach, a long sweep of surf lined with Norfolk Island pines. Walk south along the promenade to Shelly Beach, a sheltered cove inside a marine reserve where snorkellers swim with fish, and on up to the headland for views back along the coast. Swim between the red and yellow flags on the ocean beach, which is patrolled by lifesavers; the harbour-side beach by the wharf is calmer for children. You pay with an Opal card or simply tap on and off with a contactless bank card or phone, and fares are lower at weekends and capped daily. A private fast ferry also runs to Manly and is quicker, but the slower public ferry is the one with the outside decks and the views.

The ferries are part of Sydney's identity. Boats have carried passengers between the city and Manly since the nineteenth century, when the town promoted itself as "seven miles from Sydney and a thousand miles from care", and generations of commuters have read their newspapers across the harbour every morning. Today the route is run as F1 of Sydney Ferries, with frequent services from early morning until late evening, roughly every half hour through much of the day. The public ferries leave from Circular Quay and the timetable and real-time departures are on the Transport for NSW website and apps. On sunny weekends and in summer school holidays the ferries fill up and queues form; travel mid-morning on a weekday for the most space on deck.

Making a day of it: Manly rewards a few hours. Swim or surf at Manly Beach, where surf schools run lessons for beginners; snorkel at Shelly Beach, where the waters of Cabbage Tree Bay are protected and full of marine life; or walk out to North Head, part of Sydney Harbour National Park, for the cliffs and views of the Heads. The Manly to Spit walk, about ten kilometres of bush track, beaches and harbour coves, is one of Sydney's great walks and ends at a bus stop for the ride back to the city. Fish and chips on the beach, a beer in one of the pubs on the Corso and the ferry home at sunset complete the classic Manly day. Many travellers time the return to arrive back at Circular Quay just after dark, when the Opera House and the Bridge are lit.

Beyond Manly, the ferry network is the cheapest sightseeing in the city. The F2 to Taronga Zoo, the F3 up the Parramatta River, the routes to Watsons Bay and Darling Harbour, and the short hop to Luna Park at Milsons Point all cost the same modest fares, and an afternoon spent hopping between wharves shows you more of Sydney than most tours. Keep your card tapped on and off, check the weekly travel cap, and remember that the best seats are always outside.