Kamakura and the Great Buddha

Kamakura was the political capital of Japan from the late twelfth century until 1333, when the Minamoto clan and their successors ruled from this small coastal town ringed by wooded hills, and the shoguns and their Zen masters left it with more great temples and shrines per square kilometer than anywhere near Tokyo. Its emblem is the Great Buddha at Kotoku-in, a colossal copper statue of Amida Buddha cast in the thirteenth century that has sat in the open air since the hall around it was destroyed by storms and a tsunami in the fifteenth century. It is one of the most serene sights in Japan, and for a tiny extra fee you can step inside the hollow statue to see how it was cast. Admission to the temple is very modest, and it opens from early morning to late afternoon. A short walk away, Hase-dera climbs a hillside above the sea, with a tall gilded wooden Kannon in its main hall, gardens of hydrangeas in early summer, a cave of carved deities and a terrace with views across Sagami Bay. In the town center, Komachi-dori is a crowded lane of snack shops and crafts leading to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the shrine founded by the first Kamakura shogun, approached along a raised avenue and crowned by a vermilion hall at the top of a long stone stairway. North of the center, Kita-Kamakura holds the great Zen monasteries of Engaku-ji and Kencho-ji, quieter and more contemplative, with cedar-shaded halls and rock gardens. The small green Enoden tram links Kamakura with the beaches and the island of Enoshima, and the crossing by Kamakurakokomae Station became famous from the anime Slam Dunk.

Kamakura or Nikko or Hakone? For a first trip to Japan, Kamakura is the easiest and most rewarding day trip: no reservations, about an hour by direct JR train from Tokyo or Shinjuku, and enough variety to fill a day without a car or a tour. Nikko is grander and needs a longer day; Hakone is better as an overnight onsen stay with Mount Fuji views. The downside is crowds. Kamakura is extremely popular with domestic tourists, especially on weekends, in hydrangea season in June and in autumn foliage season, and the central streets and the Enoden can be packed. Go on a weekday, start early, and walk rather than queue for buses.

The best route for most people: take the JR Yokosuka Line to Kita-Kamakura and visit Engaku-ji first, then walk south past Kencho-ji to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, about half an hour on foot. Eat lunch near Komachi-dori, then take the Enoden from Kamakura to Hase for Hase-dera and the Great Buddha. If you have energy, continue on the Enoden along the coast to Enoshima for sunset, or hike one of the wooded trails such as the Daibutsu trail from Kita-Kamakura to the Great Buddha, which takes about an hour and a half and avoids the streets. Kamakura is also famous for shirasu, tiny whitebait served fresh or boiled over rice, and for its many small cafes in old houses.

Respect the local rules. The town has struggled with overtourism, so do not stop in the road for photos at the Kamakurakokomae crossing, keep eating to designated areas, and follow the etiquette at the Great Buddha, where eating and drinking on the grounds are restricted and drones are banned. Most temples charge small entry fees and close in the late afternoon, so carry some cash and start early. A suica or PASMO card covers the JR trains and the Enoden, and the Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass is a good value option for the coastal tram.