Duino Castle and the Rilke Path

Duino Castle stands on a rocky cliff above the sea about half an hour from Trieste, and it is one of the most dramatic settings on this coast. The present castle dates from the fourteenth century and was built over the remains of a Roman military outpost. It has passed through several noble families and is still the private residence of the princes of the della Torre e Tasso family, who have opened parts of it to visitors since 2003. Guests over the years have included an empress, composers and poets, and the castle's sea-view terraces explain why. The most famous guest was the poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who stayed here in 1912 as the guest of Princess Marie von Thurn und Taxis. According to the castle, he began the Duino Elegies in these rooms, drafting the first two within days, and the cycle was completed years later in Switzerland and published in 1922. A cliff-top path through the woods, the Rilke Path, now links Duino with Sistiana and is one of the loveliest short walks on the Adriatic.

Visiting the castle involves several parts. The rooms contain furniture, portraits and memorabilia, and the terraced gardens were designed by the princess and expanded later with thousands of seasonal flowers. A bunker dug into the rock in the Second World War, 18 metres deep, is open to visitors and adds a different, more sombre layer to the history.

The castle is open daily from March to the end of October and at weekends and on public holidays during the rest of the year, but arrangements can change, so check before you go. The ruins of an older castle stand nearby on the rocks, and a legend of a White Lady is told about the cliff.

The Rilke Path is a short coastal walk of roughly two kilometres between Duino and Sistiana, passing through pine and holm oak, with viewpoints looking down to the sea. It is popular and easy, though some stretches have uneven ground and drop-offs, so wear proper shoes and keep children close. You can walk it one way and return by bus or taxi, or take a longer loop. Along the route are old observation posts and benches placed for the views. It is lovely in spring and autumn and can be hot in midsummer.

Reaching Duino from Trieste is easy by road, with bus options along the coast, and many organised tours combine the castle with Miramare, which makes a good day if you do not drive. Add a swim at a Sistiana beach in summer or lunch in the harbour of Duino village. Allow three to four hours for the castle and the walk, and more if you plan a swim or a long lunch. Check the weather forecast, because high winds can make the cliff paths less pleasant, and keep to marked trails.

A short walk adds charm to the visit. Take a picnic or a snack to eat at a viewpoint, and look for the small observation points along the route. Early morning is the quietest time for the path, and late afternoon gives golden light on the cliffs. If you enjoy poetry, bring a copy of the first Elegy to read at a bench. Families should note that the castle's stairs and terraces include edges, and the path has uneven sections, so keep children close and wear shoes with good grip.