Roman Theatre and Old Town

Under the shadow of San Giusto hill, tucked among apartment blocks, lies the stone bowl of the Roman theatre of Tergeste. It was built in the early imperial period, in the first and second centuries, and could seat thousands of spectators with the stage facing the old harbour. It was rediscovered in the nineteenth century when later buildings were cleared away, and today it can be seen freely from the street, with steps and tiers curving around a stage area that still holds summer performances in some years. Seeing it takes ten minutes, but the surrounding old town, known as Cittavecchia, makes a satisfying longer walk. Cittavecchia is the old core between the waterfront and the castle hill. Its lanes are narrow, slightly crooked and partly pedestrian, lined with tiny bars, antique dealers, vintage shops and craft workshops, and a handful of small churches. It is much quieter than the grand squares on the waterfront, and a good place to see ordinary Trieste life. Not far from the theatre is a surviving Roman gate, the Arch of Riccardo, one of the oldest standing structures in the city, and the stone lanes beyond lead up toward the cathedral and the castle.

The theatre is easiest to find by following the signs from the waterfront near the main square, or by walking down from the cathedral. The tiers are open and the site is usually accessible from the street, so no timetable applies in the same way as a museum.

You can stand on the lower level and imagine the stage; archaeologists believe the theatre faced the sea, so the performances had a backdrop of ships. Information panels explain the layout, and it is a good place to pair with the Roman stones gallery in the castle above.

The surrounding quarter rewards slow walking. Look for the small bookshop and antique stalls, the arches and stone steps, and the viewpoints where a street suddenly opens to the harbour. Some of the old town was damaged and rebuilt in the twentieth century, so the character is more layered than perfectly preserved. A coffee at a corner bar, a walk around the Arch of Riccardo, then a climb to the castle makes a classic half-day circuit for anyone interested in the ancient city.

Use caution after dark in some quiet lanes, and wear shoes with grip for the worn stone. If you are using a guided walking tour, ask whether it includes the Roman quarter; some do and some skip it. The old town is hilly, so allow longer if you are travelling with young children or a wheelchair.

In summer, performances may be staged at the theatre, so look at the local events calendar. Free to see and easy to fit between meals, this is the place where the long history of Trieste becomes most visible, a reminder that the city was a Roman port two thousand years before it became a Habsburg one.

To make the most of the area, start at the theatre and then follow the lanes uphill, pausing at each small square. Notice how the street pattern bends around older foundations, and how later buildings lean on Roman walls. Photographers will enjoy the contrast of ancient stone and ordinary laundry lines, a reminder that the quarter is lived in.

Bring a small amount of cash for the bars and shops, and expect some places to close in the afternoon. A guided walk can add stories about the excavations and the families who lived above the ruins for generations.