Tromsø is a compact city on an island in northern Norway, about 350 kilometres inside the Arctic Circle, and in the dark season it is one of the best places on earth to watch the Northern Lights. Visit Tromsø puts the aurora season at late August to early April, and the town sits under the auroral oval, which is why so many tours leave every evening. Today is early November, so the days are still shortening, and the polar night, when the sun stays below the horizon, runs from around 27 November to 15 January. Even then it is not pitch black, because a few hours of blue twilight around midday give the city a soft, unusual light.
Book ahead: the short list
Book the Northern Lights chase first, and book it for your first or second night so that a cloudy evening can be repeated. The big bus chase is the best-value option, while the small-group chase has thermal suits, a campfire and a photographer. If you want whales, book the full-day hybrid-electric boat trip. The whale season runs from roughly the beginning of November to the end of January, so it is on now, but sightings are never guaranteed and some seasons end early. Husky sledding and reindeer visits also sell out in peak weeks.
The sights that do not need booking
The Fjellheisen cable car takes you 421 metres up to Storsteinen in a few minutes and is open every day from morning until midnight, with a mountain cafe at the top. The Arctic Cathedral is across the Tromsø Bridge and costs a small fee. Polaria, the Arctic aquarium, has bearded seals trained and fed three times a day, and the Polar Museum tells the story of Arctic expeditions and Svalbard. All of them are open daily, and they are the right plan for the dark hours of the afternoon or a stormy day.
How many days
Three full days is the sweet spot. Day one: Polaria and the Polar Museum along the waterfront, an early dinner, then an aurora chase. Day two: a daytime activity such as husky sledding, snowshoeing or a reindeer and Sámi visit, then the Fjellheisen cable car at night to look for lights above the city. Day three: the whale-watching boat or the Kvaløya and Sommarøy fjord road trip. Four or five days improve your chances of a clear sky, which matters more than anything else.
Getting around
The centre is walkable, and most hotels are within ten minutes of the cathedral, the Polar Museum and Polaria. Tours collect from hotels or from the Prostneset bus terminal and the Scandic Ishavshotel quay. City buses cross the bridge to the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, and the airport is only a short drive from the centre. You do not need a car, and winter driving on icy roads is best left to professionals.
What to wear
Layers are everything. Wear a base layer, a warm mid-layer, a windproof outer shell, insulated boots with grip, a hat and proper gloves. Some tours supply thermal suits and boots, such as the small-group chase and husky sledding, but the big bus chase does not. You can rent winter clothing in town. Pavements can be icy in the centre, so grip matters more than style.
When to go
If you only come once, aim for December to February for the best mix of snow and aurora, with the polar night adding atmosphere. The whale season ends at the end of January. Late winter and March bring longer days and good snow for husky and snowshoe trips. November, like now, has less reliable snow but excellent aurora and whales.
Where to stay
A central address saves time and taxis, and our where to stay guide compares five hotels from a harbourfront splurge to a budget base.
Final tip
Do not plan the trip around a single night. The aurora depends on cloud, solar activity and luck, so spread your chances across several evenings and enjoy the daytime Arctic in between.