Piazza delle Erbe has been the centre of Verona since Roman times, when this was the site of the forum, and it is still where the city meets. Market stalls fill the middle under white umbrellas, cafés spill out at the edges, and the buildings around it tell the city’s story: the crenellated Domus Mercatorum, the merchants’ house; the Case Mazzanti with their painted façades, once the Scaligers’ granary; and in the centre the Madonna Verona fountain, a Roman statue set there by Cansignorio della Scala. Pass under the Arco della Costa, with its whale rib hanging from the arch, and you enter Piazza dei Signori, the political heart of Scaliger Verona. Here the Palazzo della Ragione, the Palazzo del Capitanio and the elegant Renaissance Loggia frame a calm square with a pensive statue of Dante, who found refuge in Verona after his exile from Florence. Both squares are free and open all the time.
How to see them: start in Piazza delle Erbe in the morning, when the market is setting up and the light falls on the painted Case Mazzanti, then walk the length of the square to the Madonna Verona fountain. Look up at the Lamberti Tower rising behind the Palazzo della Ragione, and pass under the Arco della Costa into Piazza dei Signori. From there, a short alley leads to the Arche Scaligere, the elaborate Gothic tombs of the Della Scala lords, including the equestrian figure of Cangrande I, which you can see through the ironwork even when the enclosure is closed.
Inside the Palazzo della Ragione: the courtyard, the Mercato Vecchio, is free to enter and has the beautiful external Scala della Ragione staircase, built nearly a century after Cansignorio’s death. From the courtyard you reach the ticket office for the Lamberti Tower and the Modern Art Gallery, both included in the VeronaCard.
Good to know: the market stalls are aimed largely at visitors, so come for the setting rather than the shopping. Cafés on the squares charge more for table service, which is the price of the view; a coffee standing at the bar is far cheaper. In the evening both squares fill with people taking an aperitivo, and Piazza delle Erbe is one of the best places in Italy to try a spritz at sunset.
What to expect
The experience
A free, open-air walk through two connected medieval squares, with cafés, market stalls, palaces, the Scaliger tombs and the courtyard of the Palazzo della Ragione.
Best time
Early morning for photos and the market setting up, and early evening for the aperitivo crowd and the glow of the frescoes.
How long
An hour for a relaxed look around, or two with a coffee and a detour to the Scaliger tombs.
Tips
Drink your coffee standing at the bar to save money, look up at the frescoes and the whale rib under the Arco della Costa, and come back after dark when the squares are lit.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Everyone; these squares are the living heart of Verona and the natural start or end of any walk.
- Families
- Children enjoy spotting the whale rib, the fountain and the market stalls, and there is plenty of space for little legs.
- Couples
- An aperitivo on Piazza delle Erbe at sunset, followed by a quiet walk through Piazza dei Signori, is a classic Verona evening.
- Pair with
- The Lamberti Tower directly above, and Juliet’s House a two-minute walk away.
- Time needed
- One to two hours, with plenty of reasons to pass through again.
Good questions
Is Piazza delle Erbe free to visit?+
Yes, both Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori are public squares, free and open at all times. Only the Lamberti Tower and the museums around them charge entry.
What is the bone hanging in the Arco della Costa?+
It is a whale rib hanging under the arch between the two squares. Local legend says it will fall on the first person who passes beneath who has never told a lie.
Is there a market in Piazza delle Erbe?+
Yes, market stalls fill the centre of the square most days. They mostly sell souvenirs and snacks today, but the setting is the real attraction.
Why is there a statue of Dante in Verona?+
Dante lived in Verona during his exile from Florence, as a guest of the Della Scala lords. His statue stands in the middle of Piazza dei Signori.
Where are the Scaliger tombs?+
The Arche Scaligere are a few steps from Piazza dei Signori, beside the little church of Santa Maria Antica. You can see the Gothic tombs from the street through the ironwork.
