Kahlenberg, Vineyards and Heurigen

Vienna is one of the very few capital cities with serious vineyards inside its borders, and an afternoon on the Kahlenberg and in the wine villages below it is the most Viennese experience that most visitors never have. The Kahlenberg, 484 metres high at the edge of the Vienna Woods in the 19th district, is the city's favourite viewpoint: from the terrace beside the hilltop church and hotel, the whole of Vienna spreads out below, with the Danube, the spire of St Stephens, the Giant Ferris Wheel and the Danube Tower, and on clear days views stretch to the airport and as far as the Schneeberg in Lower Austria. History hangs over the hill too: in 1683 the relief army that broke the Ottoman siege of Vienna gathered here before the decisive battle, and the small Baroque pilgrimage church of St Joseph commemorates it. On weekends from spring to autumn you can climb the Stefaniewarte, a nineteenth-century lookout tower at the summit, for an even higher view. But the real reward is coming down. The slopes between the Kahlenberg and the Danube, the Nussberg and the hills above Grinzing, Nussdorf, Sievering and Heiligenstadt, are covered in vineyards that produce Gemischter Satz, the field blend of several white grapes planted together that is Vienna's signature wine, as well as Gruener Veltliner and Riesling. Scattered among them are the Heurigen, wine taverns run by the growers, where you sit at wooden tables in a garden or a vaulted room, drink the house wine by the quarter litre and eat from a cold buffet of roast pork, cured meats, cheese, spreads and salads. A pine branch hung over the door and the word ausgsteckt mean a Heuriger is open; many open only for a few weeks at a time, in rotation.

How to do it: take the U4 to Heiligenstadt and then bus 38A, which climbs through Grinzing to the Kahlenberg in under half an hour and runs several times an hour. Enjoy the view and a coffee at the top, then walk down. The most popular route is City Hiking Trail 1, which descends through the Nussberg vineyards to Nussdorf, where tram D takes you straight back to the Ring; allow one to two hours at a gentle pace, plus time for stops. The paths are good but some are steep, so wear proper shoes. Alternatively, hop off bus 38A in Grinzing on the way back for a Heuriger in the village.

Choosing a Heuriger: Grinzing is the most famous wine village and the busiest with tour groups; for a more authentic experience, look to Nussdorf, Sievering, Neustift am Walde or the Heurigen up among the vineyards of the Nussberg, many of which open seasonally with views over the city. Check the opening calendar before you go, since smaller family Heurigen open in rotation. Late September and early October is the best season, when the grapes are harvested, the vineyards turn gold and the city's Wine Hiking Day brings thousands out onto the trails at the end of September. In autumn, look for Sturm, the cloudy, partly fermented young wine sold only for a few weeks.

Who it suits: couples, for whom a sunset glass of Gemischter Satz above the city is pure romance; families, who can make it an easy half-day walk with a playground stop and apple juice at the Heuriger; and first-time visitors who want to see the green, relaxed side of Vienna. Entry to the hill, the vineyards and the trails is free; you pay only for the bus, the tower and what you eat and drink. Bring cash, as some small Heurigen still prefer it.