Buddha Park

Buddha Park, known locally as Xieng Khuan, is one of the strangest and most photogenic places in Laos. Roughly half an hour southeast of the capital, on a grassy bank beside the Mekong, a field of enormous concrete figures rises out of the lawn: a reclining Buddha stretching some forty metres, multi-armed Hindu deities, demons, animals and strange composite creatures, all weathered by decades of rain into a soft grey-green. The park was begun in 1958 by Bunleua Sulilat, a mystic-sculptor who had studied both Hinduism and Buddhism and wanted to express their shared themes in stone. After leaving Laos for Thailand he built a sister park in Nong Khai, just across the river. The most famous feature here is a huge pumpkin-shaped sphere with a mouth-like entrance. Inside, narrow stairs climb through three levels said to represent hell, earth and heaven, and you can emerge on the roof for a view over the whole statue field. A guided day tour makes the visit easier, because the park is not on a bus route and the symbolism is easy to miss without a guide to translate the stories behind each figure.

The tour we link combines Vientiane city sights with the Buddha Park, usually taking in a few temples and monuments in the morning, then driving out to the park in the afternoon. This is the most practical way to see the site because transport and timing are arranged for you, and the guide supplies context on Bunleua Sulilat and the iconography. If you prefer, tuk-tuks, shared taxis and hired cars also reach the park, but a day tour usually costs less than organising separate transport and gives you more to see along the way.

Expect to spend about an hour in the park itself. Entrance is a small fee, with an extra small fee for a camera in some seasons, and there are stalls at the entrance for drinks, fruit and souvenirs. Wear a hat, sun cream and sturdy shoes; the grass is uneven and shade is limited.

Early afternoon can be hot, so the best light and temperatures are usually late in the day. The pumpkin climb is steep and the staircases are narrow, so take care with children and in the wet season when steps may be slippery.

Buddha Park offers something that most Southeast Asian temple sites do not: a playful, slightly eerie blend of religion, folk art and personal vision. It is easy to see why photographers love it, and it works well as a contrast to the formal temples in the city. Pair it with a Mekong riverside lunch, a stop in a village on the road, or a sunset on the river back in Vientiane.

If you are short on time, it is one of the best half-day trips from the capital and a rewarding choice for families, who can climb, explore and wonder at the statues.

If you are interested in the Nong Khai sister park across the river, your guide may mention it, but the Laos park stands on its own as a visit. Look for the three-headed elephant, the many-armed deities and the Buddha with a serene smile under a snake hood, and notice how the statues are shaded by large frangipani trees. Bring small notes for the entrance, a fruit drink from the stalls and plenty of battery for photos.