Wānaka is a lakeside town of a few thousand people at the foot of the Southern Alps, and it has become one of New Zealand’s favourite alternatives to Queenstown. Where Queenstown is loud and packed with commercial adventure, Wānaka is calmer, more outdoorsy and more local in feel. The town sits on the southern shore of Lake Wānaka, with the Clutha River flowing out of the lake, Roys Peak rising on the western side and the great wall of Mount Aspiring National Park behind. Most visitors come for the walks, the lake, the skiing and the photographs, and leave planning to return.
How many days
Two nights is enough for the highlights, but three or four is better. A first-time visit works well with one day for a big walk such as Rob Roy Glacier or Roys Peak, one day on and around the lake, and one day for a flight, a wine tour or a drive over the Crown Range. In winter, add a day for skiing at Cardrona or Treble Cone. If you only have one day, walk Mount Iron in the morning, have lunch on the lakefront, take a cruise to an island and finish at That Wānaka Tree at sunset.
What to book ahead
Scenic flights, skydives, the Milford Sound flight and the Siberia Experience all depend on weather, so book early in your stay and keep a spare day. Lake cruises, guided walks and jet boat trips are easy to book a few days ahead, but summer weekends and school holidays fill up. Accommodation is the main thing to lock in early, because the town is small and the best places sell out for summer and the ski season. Puzzling World, the kayak tours and most food and wine experiences can usually be arranged the day before.
Getting around
The town centre is compact and flat, and the lakefront is a pleasure on foot or by bike. For trailheads such as Roys Peak, Rob Roy and Diamond Lake, you need a car, a shuttle or a guided tour. Taxis and ride shares exist, but they can be limited at peak times, and there is no rail link. Many visitors rent a car in Queenstown or Christchurch and drive in via the Crown Range or the Lindis Pass. Winter driving can require chains, particularly on the Crown Range and the ski field roads.
What to see first
Start with the lakefront and Roys Bay, where you can swim, walk and have a coffee, then follow the path to That Wānaka Tree. Mount Iron gives a quick view over the whole district, and it is a good way to decide which bigger walk suits your fitness and the weather. If it rains, Puzzling World is a reliable indoor option, and the cafés and wine bars of Ardmore Street fill the gaps. Keep your camera ready, because the light on the lake changes by the minute.
The big walks
Roys Peak is famous, but it is a long climb on an exposed track, and it closes for lambing in spring. Isthmus Peak is quieter, and the Rob Roy Glacier Track is a rewarding half-day walk in Mount Aspiring National Park. Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain are good half-day options with big views. Each walk has its own character, so choose according to your energy, the forecast and how much time you have. Carry water, sun protection and a warm layer on every walk.
Water and wind
Lake Wānaka is cold, and wind can build quickly, so check the weather before kayaking, paddling or taking a boat. Cruises to Mou Waho and Ruby Island are gentle and suit most ages, while jet boats and charters add speed and flexibility. The Clutha River is fast and cold, so do not swim near the outlet. If you want to swim, the town beaches and Lake Hāwea are the usual choices on warm days.
Food and drink
Wānaka has a lively café scene, craft beer, good bakeries and a growing number of restaurants. Central Otago wine, especially pinot noir, is the regional speciality, and a tasting tour is an easy way to try it. Lunch by the lake, a picnic on the shore or a coffee after a walk are the simple pleasures. Book dinner on weekends in summer and the ski season, since tables fill early.
Money and time
Wānaka is not cheap in peak season, but it offers many free pleasures: the lakefront, the tree, the walks and the swimming. Mix paid highlights with free days to balance the budget. Allow time for driving, because distances are bigger than they look on a map, and roads can be slow in bad weather. Tell someone your plans before long walks, and carry a charged phone and a first aid kit.
Putting it together
For a first visit, a balanced plan might be a lake day, a mountain day, an adventure day and a slow day. Add the Milford Sound flight if the weather allows and you want a big once-in-a-lifetime view. Leave room for rain, because the best plans in the mountains are the flexible ones, and the town has enough cafés, bookshops and cinemas to keep you happy while you wait for the cloud to lift.