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White Mountains & Mount Washington guide

White Mountains for First-Timers

How the White Mountains fit together: the three bases, the signature sights, how much driving to expect and what to book ahead.

What the White Mountains are

The White Mountains cover the north-central part of New Hampshire and spill into western Maine, anchored by the Presidential Range and Mount Washington, which at 6,288 feet is the highest peak in the Northeast. Most of the region sits inside the White Mountain National Forest, a huge protected area crossed by only a few roads. That is why the sights come in clusters: a handful of notches, a few railways, a famous scenic byway and a short list of villages. Once you understand the clusters, planning becomes easy.

The three bases

North Conway sits on the eastern side and is the most developed, with restaurants, shops, the Conway Scenic Railroad and family attractions such as Story Land. Lincoln and North Woodstock anchor the west, close to Loon Mountain, the Flume Gorge and the Kancamagus Highway. Bretton Woods and Franconia define the north, with the Omni Mount Washington Resort, the Cog Railway and Cannon Mountain. Roads link them in loops of about an hour to ninety minutes, so you can stay in one and day-trip to the others, or move once during a longer stay.

The headline experiences

Mount Washington is the star, and you can reach its summit by the Cog Railway, the Auto Road or on foot. Franconia Notch offers the Flume Gorge, the Cannon tramway, Echo Lake and the Old Man memorial in a single drive. The Kancamagus Highway is the classic scenic drive, 34.5 miles of overlooks, waterfalls and covered bridges. Crawford Notch combines a spectacular road with waterfalls and the Conway Scenic Notch Train. Add a village stroll in North Conway and you have the core of any first visit.

How much time you need

Three days covers the highlights without rushing: one for Mount Washington, one for Franconia Notch and Lincoln, one for the Kancamagus and North Conway. Five days lets you add a hike, a lake paddle, a winery visit or a day trip to Lake Winnipesaukee. A weekend works if you pick one region and resist the urge to cover everything.

Booking priorities

Reserve the Cog Railway and any steam or sunrise trips as soon as your dates are firm, especially for September and October. Book lodging early for fall foliage and ski season. The Conway Scenic Notch Train and guided Auto Road vans also fill up in peak periods. Most other sights, including the Flume Gorge, the Cannon tramway and the Kancamagus, can be handled flexibly, though weekends are busy. Check hours and seasonal schedules, because many attractions run only from late spring to fall.

Driving and weather

Plan on a car. Distances look short on the map but roads wind, speeds are modest and summer and fall weekends bring traffic. Mountain weather is unpredictable: summit conditions can differ drastically from the valley, and fog can hide views for days. Build flexibility into your itinerary by choosing a few anchor reservations and leaving the rest open. Carry layers, rain gear and water even for short outings, and download offline maps because cell service is patchy in notches and on the Kancamagus.

Seasons at a glance

Summer brings warm days, swimming holes and open attractions. Fall is the showpiece, with brilliant color, packed roads and high prices. Winter turns the region into a ski and snowshoe destination, with some attractions closed. Spring, often called mud season, is quiet and cheap but trails and some sights are closed.

Money and tips

New Hampshire has no sales tax, so outlet shopping in North Conway is popular. Many sights charge modest fees, and the White Mountain National Forest asks for a recreation pass at many trailheads. Gas is scarce on the Kancamagus, so fill up before you go. Bring cash for small vendors and parking lots, and remember that restaurants fill quickly on weekends, so reserve dinner when you can.

A simple starter plan

Day one, ride the Cog Railway or drive the Auto Road and enjoy the Bretton Woods area. Day two, drive Franconia Notch with a morning at the Flume Gorge and an afternoon on the Cannon tram. Day three, take the Kancamagus Highway from Lincoln to Conway, stop at Sabbaday Falls and finish with dinner in North Conway. That route gives you the mountain, the notch and the byway, and leaves you with a good sense of what to explore on a second trip.

Mentioned in this guide

Do

Mount Washington Cog Railway

The world's first mountain-climbing cog railway has hauled passengers up Mount Washington since 1869. Three miles of rack track, grades that top 37 percent, and a 6,288-foot summit above the trees.

Do

Mount Washington Auto Road

The Road to the Sky: 7.6 miles from Pinkham Notch to the 6,288-foot summit, driven yourself or in a guided van. America's oldest man-made tourist attraction, and the bumper sticker is the souvenir.

Do

Kancamagus Highway Scenic Drive

Route 112 runs 34.5 miles between Conway and Lincoln over the 2,855-foot Kancamagus Pass, with waterfalls, covered bridges, overlooks and no gas stations. New England's most famous foliage drive.

Do

Franconia Notch State Park

Eight miles of granite-walled notch between the Kinsman and Franconia ranges: the Basin, Profile Lake, Echo Lake, a bike path and the Old Man of the Mountain memorial, all along Interstate 93.

Do

Conway Scenic Railroad

Vintage trains from North Conway's 1874 Victorian depot, with a short Valley Train and the full Notch Train through Crawford Notch, over Frankenstein Trestle and the Willey Brook Bridge.

Stay

Eastern Slope Inn Resort

A long-running Main Street resort in the center of North Conway, a short walk from shops, restaurants and the railroad depot, with Cranmore Mountain just up the road.

Stay

The Village of Loon Mountain

Condo-style lodging at the base of Loon Mountain in Lincoln, with kitchens, room to spread out and quick access to the gondola, the Kancamagus Highway and Franconia Notch.

Stay

Omni Mount Washington Resort

The white-and-red-roofed Spanish Renaissance grand hotel of 1902, where the 1944 Bretton Woods monetary conference met, with Presidential Range views, golf, spa, skiing and the Cog Railway down the road.