Downtown Wisconsin Dells

Most visitors know the Dells as a strip of resorts and waterparks along the highway, but the town itself began downtown on the Wisconsin River, and the old center is worth an hour or two. Broadway, the main street, is lined with shops, restaurants and candy and fudge stores, and a riverside walk gives views of the water and the bluffs that started the tourist trade. It is free to wander, easy to reach on foot from nearby hotels, and a good place for an evening stroll after the waterparks close. The history here, especially the legacy of photographer H.H. Bennett, adds depth for anyone who wants to understand how a river town became a resort capital.

Wisconsin Dells grew out of the village of Kilbourn City, renamed in 1931, and the riverfront was its original business district. Steamboats and later excursion boats landed here, hotels went up to serve visitors, and photographers sold images of the rock formations to a public eager for scenery.

H.H. Bennett opened his studio in the 1860s and became one of the most famous landscape photographers in the Midwest, and his work, including the 1886 stop-action leap across Stand Rock, helped market the Dells nationally. The studio, now a historic site, remains a landmark of the downtown area.

Today the main street is a mix of tourist shops, restaurants and nostalgic attractions. Plan a walk that starts on Broadway, takes in the storefronts and ends at the river, where a walkway gives views of the water and boat traffic. Ice cream and fudge are the local staples, and the food scene ranges from classic supper clubs and pubs to casual cafes.

Because everything is walkable, it makes a pleasant evening outing that costs little beyond what you choose to buy.Timing matters. Summer evenings are lively, with crowds and street activity, while shoulder-season days are quieter and many shops keep shorter hours.

Some businesses close in winter, so check before you make a special trip. Parking is generally easiest outside peak hours, and many visitors combine downtown with a boat tour departure or a trolley ride, since both tend to start near the river area.Use downtown as a counterpoint to the resort strip.

If you spend a day at a waterpark, an hour on Broadway offers local color, a sit-down meal and the chance to learn the history behind the spectacle. Pair it with the Upper Dells boat tour for the natural story, and the trolley history ride for the context that ties the two together.

The tourism board website lists current events, festivals and seasonal markets that may be running during your visit.Some bonus tips: bring comfortable shoes and a light layer for the breeze along the water, and carry cash for small shops that may not accept cards. Ask locals about their favorite supper clubs and ice cream, since downtown has older restaurants that families have visited for decades.

If you want a quieter walk, go early in the morning before shops open, when the river light is best and only a few early boats are out. Check the tourism board's event calendar for summer concerts, fireworks and seasonal markets.