The North Yorkshire Moors Railway is one of the most popular heritage railways in the world and, for many visitors, the best way to see the heart of the North York Moors. The line runs for about eighteen miles from Pickering, a market town on the southern edge of the park, through the forested gorge of Newtondale and the stations of Levisham and Goathland to Grosmont in the Esk valley. It follows the route of one of the earliest railways in the north of England, planned by George Stephenson in the 1830s, and today it is run as a charity with the help of a large team of volunteers. Steam locomotives from several eras pull the trains, with period carriages, wood-panelled compartments, the smell of coal smoke and the long whistle echoing across the heather. The scenery is superb, with open moorland, deep green valleys, sheep on the line side and, in late summer, purple heather as far as the eye can see. Goathland station is perhaps the most photographed on the line because it stood in for Hogsmeade in the first Harry Potter film and for Aidensfield in the television series Heartbeat, and the village beside it has waterfalls and walks. At Grosmont you can see the engine sheds and, with a change of train, continue down the Esk Valley to Whitby, so the railway works as a day out in itself or as part of a larger loop.
How to visit
Most visitors start at Pickering, which has a large station, a car park, a cafe and a short walk to the town centre and castle. Grosmont is the other main starting point and is easier if you are coming from Whitby or the coast. Timetables vary a great deal through the year, with a busy service in summer and school holidays, a thinner service in spring and autumn, and special event days such as steam galas, evening dining trains and Christmas trains.
Check the timetable for your date on the railway website and buy tickets in advance for busy days, particularly if you want a particular carriage or a dining service. Many group day tours from York, Harrogate and Whitby include the railway, usually the Goathland to Grosmont or Pickering to Goathland stretch, and are a good choice if you do not want to drive on the moorland roads.
What to expect
A full journey from end to end takes a little over an hour, but most visitors break it into stages, getting off at Goathland to walk to Mallyan Spout waterfall, at Levisham for a walk to Horcum or Skelton Tower, or at Grosmont for the sheds and the heritage centre. The trains are not fast, and the charm lies in the slow rhythm, the open windows and the views.
Carriages are historic, so facilities and access vary, and some older compartments have narrow doors. Refreshments are available at the main stations and on some services. Dress in layers, because the moors are windy and cool even on a sunny day.
Making the most of it
Sit on the side facing the valley as you travel north from Pickering for the best sight of Newtondale, and have your camera ready as the train enters the gorge. If you can, stay a night in Pickering or Goathland to avoid the day-trip crowds and to enjoy the evening light on the moors. A good plan is to ride from Pickering to Goathland, walk the short path to the waterfall, take a later train on to Grosmont and either return the same way or continue by the Esk Valley line to Whitby, where fish and chips and the abbey ruins complete the day.
Autumn is a favourite time, with bracken turning gold, while spring brings lambs and newly opened hillsides.
Who it suits
Families, railway enthusiasts, film and television fans, couples and walkers all enjoy it. Children usually love the engines and the whistles, and wheelchair users should check the access information because some stations and carriages are easier than others. It is a leisurely day, so build in time for walks and meals along the line.
What to expect
The experience
A ride on a heritage steam train across the North York Moors, either on its own or as part of a day tour that links the railway with Whitby.
Best time
Late summer for heather, autumn for colour, or a spring weekday for quieter trains. Check the timetable for your date.
How long
A full end-to-end journey takes a little over an hour; most visitors plan a half or full day.
Tips
Check the timetable before you go, dress in layers, sit on the valley side through Newtondale and allow time at Goathland.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Families, railway fans and anyone who wants to see the heart of the moors.
- Families
- Children enjoy the engines, the whistles and the open windows.
- Couples
- A slow ride through the gorge followed by a waterfall walk at Goathland.
- Pair with
- Goathland village, Mallyan Spout waterfall and Whitby.
- Time needed
- Allow half a day for the main stretch, or a full day with Whitby.
Good questions
Where does the North Yorkshire Moors Railway run?+
It runs from Pickering to Grosmont, through Levisham, Newtondale and Goathland, a distance of about eighteen miles.
Can I get to Whitby on the railway?+
Not directly. At Grosmont you change to the Esk Valley line, a regular rail service that continues to Whitby.
Why is Goathland station famous?+
It appears as Hogsmeade in the first Harry Potter film and as Aidensfield in Heartbeat, and the village has waterfalls and walks.
Do the trains run all year?+
The service varies by season, with the most trains in summer and school holidays and fewer at other times. Check the timetable for your date.
Can I visit without a car?+
Yes. Pickering and Grosmont have rail or bus links, and several guided day tours from York and Whitby include a ride on the railway.
