Yorkshire is England's biggest county, and the part covered here, the Dales, the Moors, the coast and the market towns between them, can feel confusing on a first visit. The good news is that the pieces are clearly different and easy to combine. The Yorkshire Dales National Park lies to the west and north, a land of green valleys, drystone walls, waterfalls and stone villages. The North York Moors National Park lies to the east, with high heather moorland, deep dales and a dramatic coastline that includes Whitby. In between sit spa towns such as Harrogate, market towns such as Ripon, Skipton and Helmsley, and the literary village of Haworth. York has its own Twickly guide and is not covered here.
How many days
Three to five days is a comfortable first visit. Two days is enough for a sampler, such as one day in the Dales and one on the Moors and coast. With a week you can add Haworth, Harrogate and a slower pace. Distances look short on a map, but roads are narrow, villages are slow to cross and weather changes the day, so allow more time than you expect.
Where to base yourself
Harrogate suits visitors who want restaurants, shops and a town feel, with easy access to the southern and central Dales. Skipton and Haworth suit those who prefer the south and west. Helmsley and Whitby suit the Moors and coast, and Hawes is the choice for the northern Dales. A two-base trip, one in the west and one on the east side, reduces driving and gives two different atmospheres. The where-to-stay guide goes into more detail.
Car or tour
A car gives the most freedom, especially for the Dales, where public transport is limited and many of the best places are in villages. Driving on narrow roads takes care, so allow extra time. If you do not want to drive, guided day tours cover the main areas. A full-day Dales tour, an All Creatures Great and Small tour, a Heartbeat tour and a Whitby and steam train trip all work for visitors without a car, and private tours offer flexibility at a higher price. Trains serve towns such as Harrogate and Skipton, but they do not reach most villages.
What to book ahead
Book tours and any timed tickets in advance, especially in summer and on weekends. The Whitby Abbey ticket, steam railway days and popular tours can sell out. Reserve dinner in small towns, because restaurants are limited and fill quickly, and book afternoon tea in Harrogate if you want a table at a famous tea room. Accommodation in Whitby, Haworth and the Dales villages is tight in summer and during festivals, so reserve early.
What to pack
The weather changes quickly in both national parks, so pack layers, a waterproof and shoes with grip. The moors are exposed, and the coast is windy even when it is warm. Bring a small day bag, a refillable bottle and some cash, since small cafes, car parks and honesty boxes sometimes do not take cards. A basic map or downloaded offline map is useful, because phone signal is unreliable in valleys.
Rhythm of a day
A good pattern is to start early, do the main sight or drive in the morning, have a long lunch at a pub or tea room and finish with a gentle walk or a village stop. Evenings are quiet in most places, so plan dinner rather than hoping to find a table. Sunsets over the moors and coast are worth waiting for in summer, but in winter daylight ends by mid-afternoon.
Top first-timer choices
If you only do a handful of things, pick Whitby and its abbey, a ride on the steam railway or a day trip that includes it, a day in the Dales with a guide or on your own, and a walk in a village such as Haworth. Add a food tour in Harrogate or Ripon for a different side of the county, and a television-themed day if you love Heartbeat or All Creatures Great and Small.
Respecting the countryside
The Dales and Moors are working landscapes. Close gates, keep dogs under control near livestock, stay on footpaths and take litter home. Parking in villages can be limited, so use car parks rather than blocking farm entrances. Rivers can rise quickly after rain, so obey warning signs, especially near fast water.
Accessibility
Many sights have steps, cobbles and steep ground, including Whitby's old town and Haworth's Main Street. If mobility is a concern, choose a vehicle-based tour, ask venues about access in advance and consider hotels with ground-floor rooms. Several towns have flatter areas, such as Harrogate's centre and Helmsley's square.
