Kornati National Park

The Kornati archipelago is one of the most distinctive seascapes in the Mediterranean. More than a hundred islands, islets and reefs lie scattered in the sea south-west of Zadar, most of them treeless and pale, their limestone slopes crossed by ancient dry stone walls built by shepherds and farmers. Much of the group is protected as Kornati National Park, created in 1980, and reaching it by boat from Zadar is the standard way to visit. The scenery is stark and beautiful, particularly in the low afternoon light when the stones glow and the sea turns a deep, clear blue. A full day boat trip typically includes a cruise through the islands, a stop for swimming and lunch, and time to take in the outer cliffs that face the open sea. The sailing time from Zadar is part of the experience, as the boat moves gradually from the green coastal islands into a landscape that feels entirely different.

The Kornati islands are mostly uninhabited, and the few buildings are small stone houses used seasonally by farmers who still tend olive groves and sheep. That sparse human presence is part of the charm. Walking across the islands, where permitted, you see the intricate dry stone walls that divide the land, and you learn that many of them were built to claim pasture centuries ago. The park is also known for its underwater life, with clear water, rocky reefs and seagrass meadows, which makes it a favourite area for divers and snorkellers.

Most visitors join a day trip from Zadar by boat. Departures are usually in the morning, with the return in late afternoon. Typical stops include a swim in a quiet bay, a lunch of grilled fish or a simple Dalmatian meal on board or on shore, and a cruise past the Kornati crown cliffs, the dramatic line of cliffs on the outer edge.

The park entry fee is often paid separately on the day, so ask what is included when you book. Smaller boats feel more personal, while larger ones tend to be cheaper and more social.

Be realistic about conditions. Sea state matters a great deal on an open-water day, and a stiff wind can make the outer cliffs choppy. If you are sensitive to motion, take precautions and sit near the centre of the boat. Sun and heat are the other issue, because there is very little shade on the islands. Bring a hat, strong sun cream, plenty of water and swimwear.

Combination trips often pair Kornati with Telašćica Nature Park on Dugi Otok, which has dramatic cliffs and a salt lake. If you want to see both, look for a tour that includes them, or choose the Telašćica trip separately for a different mood. May, June and September are good months, with comfortable temperatures and fewer boats than in July and August.

Private and skippered tours are available for groups that want a custom route. These cost more, but they allow you to choose swimming spots, avoid crowds and linger in the quietest coves.