The Upper Town is where Zagreb began, and it still feels like a small town perched above a big city. Its heart is St Mark’s Square, once the main market square of the medieval settlement of Gradec, and its centrepiece is the Church of St Mark, a thirteenth-century Romanesque church rebuilt in neo-Gothic style at the end of the nineteenth century. Its roof is the most photographed in Croatia: glazed tiles in red, white and blue forming the coats of arms of the Croatian kingdom and of Zagreb. Inside, the interior was restored in the 1930s by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović and the painter Jozo Kljaković. The church was badly damaged in the 2020 earthquakes and reopened to worshippers in December 2023. Around the square stand the Banski dvori, the seat of the Croatian Government, and the Sabor, the parliament, where Croatia cut its ties with Yugoslavia in 1991. A short stroll away, the Lotrščak Tower, part of the old fortifications, fires its Grič cannon every day at noon, and the Strossmayer promenade looks out over the red roofs of the Lower Town. The funicular, which has linked the Lower and Upper Towns since 1890, saves you the climb.
How to explore: start at the lower station of the funicular on Tomićeva street, just off Ilica, and ride the 66 metres up in under a minute. You arrive beside the Lotrščak Tower and the Strossmayer promenade. Walk along Ćirilometodska to St Mark’s Square, then down through the Stone Gate, the last surviving town gate, where a shrine with a painting that survived a great fire in the eighteenth century draws locals to light candles. From there, Radićeva street leads down towards Tkalčićeva and Kaptol. The whole loop takes about two hours at an easy pace with stops.
Good to know: the Upper Town is free to wander at any time. St Mark’s is a working parish church, so you can usually look in around services, but most visitors admire it from the square. The government and parliament buildings are not open for casual visits, and police guard the square. Be at the Lotrščak Tower or the promenade just before noon to hear the cannon.
During Advent: from 28 November 2026 to 7 January 2027, Plato Gradec and the Strossmayer promenade become two of the most atmospheric Advent locations, with stalls, lights and views over the city. Expect crowds in the evenings and at weekends.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk through cobbled streets and squares, with a funicular ride up, the Lotrščak Tower, St Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate.
Best time
Late morning to catch the noon cannon, or dusk for the views from the Strossmayer promenade as the Lower Town lights up.
How long
Two to three hours including the funicular and a coffee stop.
Tips
Ride the funicular up and walk down through the Stone Gate, wear shoes with grip for the cobbles, and arrive before noon for the cannon.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Every first-time visitor; this is the postcard of Zagreb.
- Families
- Children love the tiny funicular and the noon cannon, and the walk is short enough for small legs.
- Couples
- Walk the Strossmayer promenade at sunset, then descend through the candlelit Stone Gate.
- Pair with
- The Museum of Broken Relationships, then Kaptol, the cathedral and the Dolac market.
- Time needed
- Half a day with a museum, two hours on its own.
Good questions
Can you go inside St Mark’s Church in Zagreb?+
St Mark’s reopened to worshippers in December 2023 after earthquake repairs and is a working parish church. Visitors can usually look in around service times, but most people admire the tiled roof from the square.
When does the Grič cannon fire?+
The cannon in the Lotrščak Tower is fired every day at noon. Stand on the Strossmayer promenade or near the tower to hear it.
How long is the Zagreb funicular?+
The funicular runs just 66 metres and has operated since 1890. The ride takes under a minute.
Is the Upper Town free to visit?+
Yes, the streets and squares are free at any time. You pay only for the funicular, museums and the tower.
Is the Upper Town part of Advent in Zagreb?+
Yes, Plato Gradec and the Strossmayer promenade are Advent locations from 28 November 2026 to 7 January 2027. Evenings and weekends are busy.
