Uetliberg

Every Zurich resident has a favourite story about the Uetliberg, the wooded hill that rises on the western edge of the city to around 870 metres, and every visitor should make the short trip up. The S10 train from Zurich main station climbs steeply through the suburbs and the forest to Uetliberg station in under half an hour, and from there it is a walk of about ten minutes uphill to the summit, called the Uto Kulm. Until the timetable change on 13 December 2026 the line is closed between the main station and Selnau, so board the S10 at Selnau, a twelve-minute walk or short tram ride away. At the top, a metal lookout tower about 70 metres high, with 178 steps, gives a 360-degree panorama: the city and the full length of Lake Zurich at your feet, the Reuss valley and the Jura to the west, and on clear days the whole line of the Alps, from the Saentis in the east across the Glarus Alps and the central Swiss peaks to the Bernese Oberland, with Eiger, Moench and Jungfrau on the horizon. A hotel and restaurant at the summit, the Uto Kulm, offers terraces, Sunday brunch and events, and a cheaper kiosk and picnic spots serve walkers. The most popular walk is the Planet Trail, the Planetenweg, a ridge path from the Uetliberg to Felsenegg on which the solar system is laid out to scale, one metre for every million kilometres, from the sun at the top to Pluto near the end. It takes about two hours on easy paths with views on both sides, and at Felsenegg a small cable car drops down to Adliswil, where you can catch the S4 train back to the city, making a perfect loop. In winter, when snow falls, the forest road from the summit down towards the Triemli area becomes the city's favourite toboggan run, and sledges can be rented in good conditions. Above all, the Uetliberg is famous for its autumn and winter inversions, when the city lies under a sea of fog and the summit stands in sunshine, with the Alps gleaming above the cloud. The mountain itself is free; you pay only for the train, which is covered by the Swiss Travel Pass and the Zurich network day passes.

How to do it well: check the weather and the webcam before you go, and remember the inversion rule: on grey, foggy days in the city between October and March, the Uetliberg is often above the clouds, in brilliant sunshine. Go up in the morning for the clearest mountain views or in the late afternoon for the sunset over the Jura and the city lights below. The tower has no lift, and the top platforms are exposed, so bring a warm layer in any season. The summit can be busy on sunny weekends; weekday mornings are calm. Families can follow the Planet Trail with children, who enjoy spotting the planets, and the path is suitable for strong pushchairs in dry weather.

The Planet Trail loop: from the Uto Kulm, follow the signs towards Felsenegg along the ridge, past the planets, through beech forest and open viewpoints over the lake. At Felsenegg there is a restaurant with a terrace and a viewpoint, and the small cable car down to Adliswil runs regularly; from Adliswil the S4 takes you back to Zurich main station. The full loop, including transport, takes about half a day. Walkers who prefer to stay on foot can hike down from the Uetliberg to the city through the forest in about an hour and a half.

Practical details: the S10 runs frequently from the underground platforms at Zurich main station, and the ride itself is a sight, as the train climbs one of the steepest standard-gauge lines in Europe without a cogwheel. Wear proper shoes, especially in winter when paths can be icy. The Uto Kulm hotel and restaurant is the place for a celebratory lunch with a view; check its events and opening times before you go. Sledging depends entirely on snow conditions, which are irregular at this altitude, so treat it as a bonus rather than a plan.