Dettifoss, Europe's Most Powerful Waterfall

Dettifoss is the heavyweight of Icelandic waterfalls. The glacial river Jökulsá á Fjöllum pours over a rim about a hundred metres wide and falls roughly forty-five metres into a canyon, carrying so much grey, silt-heavy water that the ground trembles and spray drifts across the viewing paths. By volume it is considered the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and its colour, a thick milky grey from glacial sediment, is part of the character. It lies in the Jökulsárgljúfur part of Vatnajökull National Park, about a hundred and seventy kilometres from Akureyri. Dettifoss does not try to be pretty. It is large, loud and elemental, and many visitors find it more moving than the prettier falls nearby. A short walk upstream leads to Selfoss, a broad cascade of many channels, and a longer path downstream passes Hafragilsfoss, a deep canyon fall seen from a high rim. Together the three make one of the most impressive waterfall corridors in the north.

Access depends on the side of the river. The western side, reached by road 862 from the Ring Road, is generally paved and open for much of the year, while the eastern road 864 is a rougher gravel route that is closed in winter. Most Akureyri tours use the western approach, which has a car park and a clear path of about a kilometre to the main viewpoints.

The route is gravel and rock, often wet with spray, so sturdy waterproof shoes are important, and there are few handrails, so keep to the paths and away from the edge.

Season shapes the visit. In summer the river runs at full strength from glacial melt and the car parks fill by midday. In shoulder months the surroundings are quieter, though the road can be soft or closed after heavy weather. In winter the spray freezes into thick ice and the scene turns blue and white, but the access road may be snowy or closed and the trip should only be made with a guide used to the conditions. Check road and weather information before you go, as the highland-edge weather can change quickly.

Most visitors see Dettifoss as part of a larger loop. The Diamond Circle tours link it with Goðafoss, Mývatn, Ásbyrgi canyon and Húsavík, and shorter small-group trips from Akureyri pair it with Mývatn and Goðafoss in a full day. Because the distance is long, a guided day removes the stress of driving, and you can settle in to enjoy the scenery. If you hire a car, plan a long day and fuel up beforehand, since services are scarce.

Bring layers, waterproofs, a hat and a snack, as the viewing area has few facilities beyond toilets at the car park. Photographers should carry a lens cloth, since the spray coats everything in minutes, and a tripod is useful in dim light. Dettifoss became widely known after appearing in a well-known science fiction film, but it does not need the fame.

Stand at the edge of the path, feel the rumble through your boots, and you will understand why it is on so many lists of Iceland's great sights. Allow time to sit on the rocks above the path for a while and simply watch the water, since the scale only sinks in after a few quiet minutes.