The Diamond Circle

The Diamond Circle is North Iceland's answer to the better-known Golden Circle near Reykjavik. It is a loop of roughly two hundred and fifty kilometres that strings together the region's star attractions: Goðafoss waterfall, the volcanic Lake Mývatn area, Dettifoss and the canyon of Jökulsárgljúfur, the horseshoe-shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi, and the whale-watching harbour town of Húsavík. Most versions start and finish in Akureyri, which makes the town a natural base, and a long day can cover the loop with guided stops at each major sight. What makes the Diamond Circle special is the sheer variety. In a single day you can stand under a legendary waterfall, walk across a lava field, smell sulphur from a steaming vent, feel a glacial river shake the ground and look out over a whale-filled bay. Few scenic drives pack so many different landscapes into one connected route.

A guided day usually runs in the same order. After Goðafoss, the road rises to Mývatn for lunch and the volcanic stops, then continues to Dettifoss, with a possible detour to Ásbyrgi, a vast, forested horseshoe canyon in the same national park that folklore says was made by the hoof of Odin's eight-legged horse Sleipnir.

The loop returns through Húsavík, where a short stop for the harbour, the wooden church and a coffee gives a quieter ending. Some tours add the Nature Baths or a whale watching trip, which turns the loop into a longer experience.

Because of the distance, a full Diamond Circle in one day is a big undertaking, around ten to twelve hours of travel and walking with relatively short time at each stop. Many travellers prefer to split it over two days, staying overnight at Mývatn or Húsavík so they can use the evening light and take their time at the baths. Others pick the best parts, such as Goðafoss, Mývatn and Dettifoss, and skip the rest. Premium four-wheel-drive and small-group options give more flexibility, and private tours allow you to design the route around your interests.

Season matters more than people expect. In summer all the roads are open, daylight is nearly endless and the full loop is easy. In winter some roads, particularly the eastern road to Dettifoss, close, and the circuit may be shortened or changed, with a guide using the best route available. Shoulder seasons are good for photography, with fewer people and softer light. Whatever the month, dress in layers and bring waterproofs, because the weather can differ greatly between the coast and the interior.

If you are driving yourself, remember that distances are long and fuel and food stops are limited between Mývatn and Húsavík, so fill up in advance and carry snacks. Road signs follow the Diamond Circle brand, and a good map or offline navigation helps. Whether you take a bus tour, a small group or your own car, plan to spend the evening in Akureyri with a good meal after a day of big landscapes.

The loop is one of the clearest arguments for basing yourself in North Iceland rather than rushing through on the way to somewhere else. Ask your guide or hotel about local weather before you set out, since sunshine in Akureyri does not always mean clear skies at Dettifoss.