Alicante eats well, and eats late. The food is Mediterranean at its core: fresh seafood, olive oil, vegetables and above all rice. Understanding a few dishes and habits will make every meal better.
Rice is the star
The province is famous for rice dishes, and ordering one is the best way to eat like a local. Paella is the best-known, but it is only one of many. Arroz a banda is cooked in fish stock and served with aioli, arroz con costra from Elche has a crisp egg crust, and caldero from Tabarca is a rich fisherman's rice. Rice is usually ordered by the number of diners and takes time to cook, so expect to wait. Avoid places that display photographs of paella outside and serve it all day; the best restaurants cook to order, usually at lunch.
Tapas and small plates
In the old town, tapas bars serve croquetas, patatas bravas, tortilla, jamon, cheese and grilled seafood. Look for mojama, a salt-cured tuna, and for local anchovies and salt cod. Many bars bring a small free snack with the first drink, though this varies. A guided evening tour is a good way to learn the ropes and find reliable bars.
The central market
The Mercado Central is the best place to see the produce that shapes the cuisine: red prawns from the bay, tomatoes, olives, almonds and citrus. Fish and meat are downstairs, fruit and vegetables upstairs. The market closes on Sundays, and mornings are the best time. A market tour with tastings is a pleasant first-day plan.
Sweet things
Alicante is nougat country. Turron from Jijona is soft and rich, while turron from Alicante is hard and crunchy. At Christmas time shops sell many varieties, but you can buy it year-round. Horchata, a cold drink made from tiger nuts, is a summer favourite, and local pastries and ice cream are everywhere on the Explanada.
Wine and drinks
The wine region inland produces powerful reds from the Monastrell grape, sweet Moscatel from the Marina Alta and the rare, long-aged Fondillon. Vermouth on ice with an orange slice is a popular afternoon drink, and beer is served in small glasses called canas. Spirits and cocktails appear later in the evening. A winery tour with tastings is an excellent way to learn about the area.
Timing
Breakfast is light, usually coffee and a tostada. Lunch runs from about two to four, and many restaurants offer a weekday set menu at a good price. Dinner starts after nine, and tapas can fill the gap in between. Tourist-oriented restaurants may serve earlier, but local places often do not open the kitchen until later. If you are hungry early, snack at a bar or the market.
Dietary needs
Seafood and pork dominate menus, but vegetarians can find rice with vegetables, salads, tortilla and grilled produce. Say the key word for your needs at the start, such as vegetariano or sin gluten, and be specific about shellfish. Many cooking classes and food tours can adapt with notice.
Where to start
Spend a morning at the market, join an evening tapas tour, book a rice lunch on a day you are by the sea, and take a cooking class to learn the technique. The coast, from Tabarca to Altea, offers seafood restaurants with views, and the interior villages serve hearty mountain dishes. Whatever you choose, eat slowly, order to share and leave room for dessert.
Eating by the sea and in the mountains
Coastal restaurants specialise in fish, rice and shellfish, often with terraces overlooking the sand. In the hills, menus turn to stews, grilled meats, olives and almond cakes. Markets in the villages sell honey, cheese and cured meats, which make excellent picnic supplies for the Algar waterfalls or the Canelobre caves. A good habit is to ask for the dish of the day, since it usually reflects what was fresh that morning and is often the best value on the menu. Tipping is modest, a few coins or rounding up, and service charges are rarely added. Before you leave, pick up a few edible souvenirs at the market: saffron, smoked paprika, nougat, almonds and a bottle of local wine travel well and recall the meals you enjoyed. Check airline rules for liquids, and wrap bottles in clothing.